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tev123's avatar
tev123
Explorer
Oct 14, 2015

100 amp alternator through battery isolator issues

Hello.

Bought a 1990 class B a few weeks ago and as you could imagine first order of business was to dismantle all the systems and learn how everything is hooked up and how it works (first rv for me) :)

I have an issue and a few questions regarding charging the coach's side battery using the vehicle's alternator:

The camper has 2 batteries, one standard in the engine bay and a deep cycle in the coach to run the appliances, etc. The coach battery gets charged from a battery charger that sits just under the transfer switch/circuit breaker panel. Either the generator or an external 110v line supplies power to it.

The prev. owner had a 100 amp alternator recently installed

There is a battery isolator in the engine bay that is connected a bit suspiciously. Both vehicle battery lead and alternator lead are attached to the same battery post of the isolator. The alternator post has nothing attached. And the aux battery post has a wire that goes through 2 inline 50A circuit breakers to the + post of the circuit breaker panel in the coach's side, where the coach's battery + cable is also connected.


Issues:

I reconnected the alternator lead to the alternator post of the battery isolator. I also noticed that one of the inline circuit breakers was blown, so I bridged it since there was another along the line.

When I turned on the vehicle and checked the readings on the isolator posts, I got 14.4v from the alternator and the aux battery post, but only 12 on the engine battery post. After about 10 seconds the aux battery cable started getting very hot (ie. smoke), so I shut off everything and disconnected the coach battery from the isolator... The wires off the isolator seem to be 8 or 10 gauge. Everything down to the coach's battery + post was warm/hot to the touch.


Questions:

Is it recommended to have the alternator also charge the coach's battery when the engine is running via the isolator? While I travel, it would top off or recharge the coach battery, but I don't know if it is not recommended to charge the deep cycle battery straight out of the alternator (eg. without a sensing battery charger...)

Could the isolator have gone bad? I would have expected the inline circuit breaker to have tripped if > 50A was going through it. Maybe that went bad too? but either way, I would not expect the battery to charge at 50A, right? The isolator is the solid state type and does not look very old; maybe a few years based on corrosion amount compared to other components...

What am I missing?


Thanks!
  • Someone probably changed the alternator and then had to stack the wires onto one post for the internal regulator to function correctly.

    I'm concerned about your hot wire issue. If you had a very run down battery the wire could get warm indeed if the full output of the alternator was coursing through the wires.

    I really like the suggestion of a mechanical switch. This solves a lot of problems but you have to be diligent and not run the engine battery down accidently. The switch is a very simple and fool proof device. No messing about with solenoids and such.
  • As a hint no RV OEM has an alternator without remote voltage sensing. Some cruising sailboats connect the alternator direct to the hotel bank and auxillary to the "chassis" motor propulsion system. This is the way I have Quicksilver wired.
  • Just as a follow up, this is what I did:

    - removed the old diode based isolator. it looked swollen as if it had expanded due to overheating

    - removed the 2 50A inline circuit breakers; one by the transfer switch and the other one by the isolator in the engine bay. I found out that they had been carbonized internally and were not doing any protection. They were likely shorting against their case and thus why the wire overheated so fast. I could not verify this as removing them destroyed them (they were carbonized and oxidized).

    - installed new 50A breakers and an automatic charging relay ( https://www.bluesea.com/products/7610/SI-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_120A )

    - installed a 4 way selector switch ( https://www.bluesea.com/products/6007/m-Series_Mini_Selector_Battery_Switch_-_Red ) so that I can have the batteries charging through either circuit via the automatic relay (mode 1), by-pass the relay altogether and connect both circuits, in case I want to use juice from the chassis battery (mode 2), or disconnect the two circuits (off mode). the 1+2 mode is essentially the same as mode 2.




    thanks to everyone for the suggestions
  • LET'S MAKE A DEAL

    PM me. Send me your busted 100+ amp isolator and I'll trade you straight across for a general duty transient voltage suppressor that connects inside your rig breaker box. Takes <10 minutes to connect. Color coded black, white ad green wires.

    120 amp and larger preferred but the bitsy 70 ampere rated isolators are just too small for my use. The heat sinks are reclaimed and used for Carbon MOSFET heat sinks. Not a green gimmick, carbon MOSFETS actually do something for a living.

    CAVEAT: Delayed response my end. It's guaranteed your isolator will sit unmolested in my PO Box maybe for a couple of months, before I can get it. But I'll carry some transient voltage suppressors when I travel north.

    Save weight. use a hammer and cold chisel and whack the potting out of the isolator.

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