100 amp charging source vs 2 grp31 AGM
My friend plans on running an obscene stereo in his new box on wheels acquisition. He wanted a dedicated power source for it able to power it for a respectable amount of time from battery power alo...
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Confusing about the second 100 amper with no pot arriving. Another mix-up? Also confusing that the adjustable one you got is a Boondocker you say, which is the version Randy makes. He does not advertise a 100 amper, but PowerMax itself has a 100a and a 120a PMBC.
Anyway, be very careful lifting the lid on the adjustable model. The knob on top works a gizmo underneath the lid that is wired over to where the internal pot goes on the regular model, and that wire is so short that you can hardly set the lid down beside the unit to work on the innards.
If you pull that wire off the end of the standing-up circuit board it goes to (like I did) you have to solder it back on and it is hard to tell where it goes (actually a pair, so there are two contact spots)
Meanwhile, you also have the 120v wires for the big on/off switch attached to the underside of the lid and the extremely thin little wires for the DC voltmeter too.
(I had to get the main circuit board out to replace the thermistor I blew on my proto-type version of that adjustable 100 amper)
Smk, this is not the regular model with the charging profile that drops the voltage to 13.6 as soon as it gets battery to 14.6, so you would not want an Iota for that instead (which also drops its voltage but to 14.2, and the Iota is not power factor corrected ) The whole point of this one is that it gets the battery to the voltage you set yourself and it stays there forever until you change it. You have to do the charging profile yourself, but the point of that is you can pick any profile you like to match whatever your battery specification is.
Using a timer for switching it off would be useful if you can't be there when it needs to be shut off.
Anyway, be very careful lifting the lid on the adjustable model. The knob on top works a gizmo underneath the lid that is wired over to where the internal pot goes on the regular model, and that wire is so short that you can hardly set the lid down beside the unit to work on the innards.
If you pull that wire off the end of the standing-up circuit board it goes to (like I did) you have to solder it back on and it is hard to tell where it goes (actually a pair, so there are two contact spots)
Meanwhile, you also have the 120v wires for the big on/off switch attached to the underside of the lid and the extremely thin little wires for the DC voltmeter too.
(I had to get the main circuit board out to replace the thermistor I blew on my proto-type version of that adjustable 100 amper)
Smk, this is not the regular model with the charging profile that drops the voltage to 13.6 as soon as it gets battery to 14.6, so you would not want an Iota for that instead (which also drops its voltage but to 14.2, and the Iota is not power factor corrected ) The whole point of this one is that it gets the battery to the voltage you set yourself and it stays there forever until you change it. You have to do the charging profile yourself, but the point of that is you can pick any profile you like to match whatever your battery specification is.
Using a timer for switching it off would be useful if you can't be there when it needs to be shut off.
