12 volt to 110 ac - Is My Thinking All Wrong?
OK , I'll admit to being no expert when it comes to electrical matters, so put this question under the topic "will this really work?". I'm getting two new Lifeline 6 volt GPL-4CT AGM batteries. Since ...
Forum Discussion
Something is "King-Size" screwball here.
The highest alternator voltage regulator factory setting I know of was the Delco 15SI 1116405 of the late seventies and early 1980's. 15.0 volts. Delco's nightmare "New Coca Cola" grade attempt to make GM cars exclusive to using the Delcotron calcium/calcium sealed battery. They cost half again as much as a good standard battery. The battery design was worthless and the regulator voltage ranked right up there with GM's bright idea to use copper plated aluminum battery cables.
Because of higher underhood temperatures, OEM has been trending voltage regulator settings in the 13's for 40-50c battery temperatures.
However, a rectifier-type isolator is capable of malfunctioning more ways than Carter has Little Liver Pills.
Try this on for size...
Here we have a correctly connected 3-terminal finned type rectifier isolator. One side is connected to the vehicle engine chassis, while the second rectifier feeds the "house" batteries.
The voltage regulator of course, senses voltage from the vehicle chassis side of the isolator.
But WAIT! All is not well in paradise! Yes the rectifiers drop voltage nearly a full volt, and yes the alternator output stud to isolator center stud will read a full volt higher because after-all those two rectifiers in the isolator will reduce voltage one full volt on each side, meaning both sides - the vehicle chassis and the house side. Compensated voltage yeah-yeah-yeah!
Until one of the isolator rectifiers decides to fail.
Rectifiers can fail OPEN CIRCUIT. No electronic connection. Just like taking a wire off. No power.
Rectifiers can fail SHORTED. No voltage drop. Just like hooking up a jumper wire bypassing the rectifier.
If the house rectifier shorts, the alternator could care less it's gonna continue to send voltage that's one volt too high to the center stud of the isolator. The chassis gets "corrected" voltage.
The other rectifier however is no longer a rectifier. Alternator voltage is sent directly to the house batteries. And guess what? It's one volt too high.
This is not a diagnosis of what you wrote - it's merely a suggestion as to how an alternator rectifier type charge divider system can malfunction.
15-volts will kill an AGM battery every bit as fast as it will a flooded battery. A compromise voltage from an alternator would be 13.6 volts. Problems arise when a search is conducted for a DC to DC voltage "adjuster" that can withstand amperage that is near to the potential of the alternator.
Because of the extremely high charge acceptance (lower internal resistance) of the AGM battery, they are less cranky about voltage than a flooded battery when recharging, and fast recharging is a requirement.
The highest alternator voltage regulator factory setting I know of was the Delco 15SI 1116405 of the late seventies and early 1980's. 15.0 volts. Delco's nightmare "New Coca Cola" grade attempt to make GM cars exclusive to using the Delcotron calcium/calcium sealed battery. They cost half again as much as a good standard battery. The battery design was worthless and the regulator voltage ranked right up there with GM's bright idea to use copper plated aluminum battery cables.
Because of higher underhood temperatures, OEM has been trending voltage regulator settings in the 13's for 40-50c battery temperatures.
However, a rectifier-type isolator is capable of malfunctioning more ways than Carter has Little Liver Pills.
Try this on for size...
Here we have a correctly connected 3-terminal finned type rectifier isolator. One side is connected to the vehicle engine chassis, while the second rectifier feeds the "house" batteries.
The voltage regulator of course, senses voltage from the vehicle chassis side of the isolator.
But WAIT! All is not well in paradise! Yes the rectifiers drop voltage nearly a full volt, and yes the alternator output stud to isolator center stud will read a full volt higher because after-all those two rectifiers in the isolator will reduce voltage one full volt on each side, meaning both sides - the vehicle chassis and the house side. Compensated voltage yeah-yeah-yeah!
Until one of the isolator rectifiers decides to fail.
Rectifiers can fail OPEN CIRCUIT. No electronic connection. Just like taking a wire off. No power.
Rectifiers can fail SHORTED. No voltage drop. Just like hooking up a jumper wire bypassing the rectifier.
If the house rectifier shorts, the alternator could care less it's gonna continue to send voltage that's one volt too high to the center stud of the isolator. The chassis gets "corrected" voltage.
The other rectifier however is no longer a rectifier. Alternator voltage is sent directly to the house batteries. And guess what? It's one volt too high.
This is not a diagnosis of what you wrote - it's merely a suggestion as to how an alternator rectifier type charge divider system can malfunction.
15-volts will kill an AGM battery every bit as fast as it will a flooded battery. A compromise voltage from an alternator would be 13.6 volts. Problems arise when a search is conducted for a DC to DC voltage "adjuster" that can withstand amperage that is near to the potential of the alternator.
Because of the extremely high charge acceptance (lower internal resistance) of the AGM battery, they are less cranky about voltage than a flooded battery when recharging, and fast recharging is a requirement.
