Forum Discussion
3_tons
Mar 08, 2016Explorer III
Makin' Do wrote:
OP here. Thanks for your input, some from those that know as little as I do and those that do know what they are talking about.
I checked the voltage output at the engine battery and the connection point where the house battery is located just to make sure I read the numbers right. At the engine battery voltage was 14.4 steady output (same as the digital voltmeter on the dash) and at the house battery it is indeed 15.4 to 15.8, bit of a fluctuation. Have a new isolator in the shop so I'll swap them over the weekend when the weather warms a little and see if there is difference at the house battery.
400 watt inverter is indeed out of the question. I do have a new, never out of the box Duracell 1500 watt inverter (modified sine) that I bought six or seven years ago that I forgot I had (wife had to remind me). I think the only reason I bought it was the price, $63 on Amazon. Never had a real plan for it.
Read the owners manual, all 67 pages, and on page 67 it said "do not hook up the invert to a battery isolator". So much for a plan. Then again, Mr Wizard said it just might be possible. Maybe I could go with solar panels as suggested.
Sounds like a two part question
a) Isolator voltage is too high - you're tackling that one...
b) An isolator cannot supply sufficient 'current' to run an inverter, thus, a good sized inverter should be connected directly to the house battery using properly sized and length cables. Undersized cables will cause a bottleneck, causing low voltage alarms.
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