12 volt to 110 ac - Is My Thinking All Wrong?
OK , I'll admit to being no expert when it comes to electrical matters, so put this question under the topic "will this really work?". I'm getting two new Lifeline 6 volt GPL-4CT AGM batteries. Since ...
Forum Discussion
harley-dave wrote:MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Something is "King-Size" screwball here.
Rectifiers can fail OPEN CIRCUIT. No electronic connection. Just like taking a wire off. No power.
Rectifiers can fail SHORTED. No voltage drop. Just like hooking up a jumper wire bypassing the rectifier.
If the house rectifier shorts, the alternator could care less it's gonna continue to send voltage that's one volt too high to the center stud of the isolator. The chassis gets "corrected" voltage.
The other rectifier however is no longer a rectifier. Alternator voltage is sent directly to the house batteries. And guess what? It's one volt too high.
At this point if it fails 'shorted' your main concern should be the alternator is sending AC power to the battery/circuit, not DC anymore. It will go bad very fast in this scenario.
Dave
When voltage departs any alternator through a FULL WAVE BRIDGE RECTIFIER, 6 working "diodes" like all alternators, the voltage is DIRECT CURRENT. DC NOT AC
The rectifier type isolator puts a SECOND SET of DIODES behind the first. Two rectifiers in SERIES. So unless BOTH the alternator rectifier AND AND AND AND the isolator rectifier fails, you are working with pure DC current. Perhaps you mistake a remote rectifier package in which three ALTERNATING CURRENT A.C. is sent to remote rectifiers.
The shorted isolator rectifier scenario is COMMON and it has cost RV owners a lot of money.
(Know-It-All-RV-Owner)
"Howcum my RV battery boiled and not the vehicle battery? Itza crummy RV battery - you can't fool me" He's right, it's tough to further fool a fool.
