12v Converter question

Mex wrote:
uxcell Power Converter Regulator DC12V(10V~16V) Step-Up to DC19V 8A 152W Waterproof Voltage Convert Transformer

I use one of their DC24V to 6V step down converters to power my cell phone amp. Never had a problem with it.

The 152W should cover your application.

Does the TV itself have a power usage indicated on it? It's possible it may require less than the adapter it came with is able to produce. They might use the same adapter for a wide range of television sets. If you have an appropriate DC ammeter, you could even measure its actual usage with a little bit of effort.

I think the biggest power consumer in a modern TV is the backlight for the screen, and its power consumption would somewhat vary with how bright you have it set for.

ktmrfs wrote:
I have two TV's that also use 19.2V input from the line through one of the wall warts. Interestingly most of the newer laptops use 19.2V to charge the batteries and as an input.

So........ I suspect that rather than use a 12V supply, TV mfg are just leveraging the laptop wall warts and internal power supply chips.

I was hoping this was the case but all the laptop power supplies I find are around 65 Watts. I need 120 Watts

Linc

I have two TV's that also use 19.2V input from the line through one of the wall warts. Interestingly most of the newer laptops use 19.2V to charge the batteries and as an input.

So........ I suspect that rather than use a 12V supply, TV mfg are just leveraging the laptop wall warts and internal power supply chips.

landyacht318 wrote:
How many output amps at 19.5vDC does the TV's power brick state?

There are many DC to DC converters out there. Here
is a 150 watt one:

These adjustable units can be employed for battery equalization too, on limited battery capacities.

Lots of laptops work on 19.5vDC, and their 'car adapters' will have the much despised ciggy plug, and an enclosed powerbrick. Just cut off the ends and put on the right barrell plug/connector. Some of these are 60 watts max, some are 90, some are 120.

Ciggy plugs are basically good only for 60 watts or less, unless upgraded, then they might be good for 120 watts but perhaps not continuously.

Power supply says 6.2 amps at 19.5v

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
IMHO

I'm cheap. Serious flaw with regards to wasting anything.

This is NOT a direct comparison between using straight DC input versus converting correct voltage with an inverter. Sorry charlie :) been there done that and got the T shirt.

Let's take a look...

Battery
Inverter
Power Brick
THEN
The TV

Battery
DC/DC booster
Television

Almost DOUBLE the watts



AMAZON PRIME


uxcell Power Converter Regulator DC12V(10V~16V) Step-Up to DC19V 8A 152W Waterproof Voltage Convert Transformer
4.9 out of 5 stars 11 customer reviews
Price: $19.99

Fixed voltage. Follow the diagram to connect the four wires. This unit is water resistant and has no exposed terminals.

My thriftiness tells me if I want an INverter I will choose a sine wave model which would use far too much power for a little TV but be infinitely more all-around useful than a tiny really undependable piece of snot.

Long-term loads add up. Call it nickel and diming a battery to death. It's the same philosophy as using lights for hours on end. It all adds up.

Thanks a bunch. This is what I’m looking for. Hopefully it is good enough to run my TV on a permanent basis

How many output amps at 19.5vDC does the TV's power brick state?

There are many DC to DC converters out there. Here
is a 150 watt one:

These adjustable units can be employed for battery equalization too, on limited battery capacities.

Lots of laptops work on 19.5vDC, and their 'car adapters' will have the much despised ciggy plug, and an enclosed powerbrick. Just cut off the ends and put on the right barrell plug/connector. Some of these are 60 watts max, some are 90, some are 120.

Ciggy plugs are basically good only for 60 watts or less, unless upgraded, then they might be good for 120 watts but perhaps not continuously.

When I studied Electronics Engineering we were taught to use 20% tolerances. that is where it came from.. Now occasionally we get down to 1-2% stuff but most components are 20% unless otherwise stated. So try it. Worst is it does not work. It will NOT damage the TV.

I know some folks claim it will. but it will not.. IN fact there is a procedure for restoring "Vintage" hardware to operation. It involves feeding it low voltage and slowly, over the course of 1-2 days Bringing the device up to the proper line voltage.. I have special devices to do just that.

If it works ... Great
If it does not. as I said. Many Computer stores (MicroWorld, Frys, Radio shack and of course Amazon) can provide DC=DC power supplies.. One of mine here is adjustable and 19.x is on the list. (in fact it is the one that can run THIS comptuer which is a 19 volt box). (I know they work, because I have used it.

Go ahead, go DC to DC, then when you get your next tv that runs on ac only, you can scrap it and go inverter. The point is, you'll have an inverter anyway.

wa8yxm wrote:

19.6 times 0.2 is about 3.9 so you should be able to go down to around 15 volts or perhaps a bit less before performance on that TV suffers.. Most House systems are 13.6 That's a bit low.. but I'd try a direct feed. It will not hurt the TV and it **MIGHT** work depending on how much wiggle room they built in.

The external power supply for the TV almost certainly isn't an unregulated transformer, but rather a switching power supply (likely one with an international input voltage range of 100-240V, but that's not important here). As such, it ought to have an output voltage regulation far better than +/- 20%.

Whether or not the television requires that input voltage or not is another question altogether, of course, but I suspect it would have a lot of trouble running on a 13.x V system (if the converter is running) and even more on 12.x V (if running off of battery power alone).