12V LED TV options

pianotuna wrote:
Hi Dakota98,

With respect, some of us try to live "off the grid". 17 watts is not a lot--but it still adds up.

Dakota98 wrote:
ABSOLUTELY !!! What's all the argument over power consumption for anyway ???? :h I just don't get it. Put the remote, bag of chips & can of beer down & go outside. An inverter makes more sense than anything. Using one allows for the purchase of ANY TV you want, without a second thought.:S

Your point understood & well taken. I should have been a bit more precise concerning my comment. Full timers on grid, week-end warriors etc. certainly not those living mostly off grid.

Hi Dakota98,

With respect, some of us try to live "off the grid". 17 watts is not a lot--but it still adds up.

Dakota98 wrote:
ABSOLUTELY !!! What's all the argument over power consumption for anyway ???? :h I just don't get it. Put the remote, bag of chips & can of beer down & go outside. An inverter makes more sense than anything. Using one allows for the purchase of ANY TV you want, without a second thought.:S

Costco had 24" class 720p Samsungs on sale for $159 the other day. Picture is quite nice. 14v brick, too, and low energy consumption.

NinerBikes wrote:

N-Trouble wrote:

NinerBikes wrote:
I just bought a Samsung 24" class 1080p TV last week. 20 to 21 watts, measured on the Kil-A-Watt, great picture, through a small 175w power inverter 12v to 120v. Then through the brick back to 14v. Picked it up at Costco for $169, had a $30 rebate, don't remember when the rebate ends.

Great TV, very very happy with the picture.

But will it work off of 12V is the real question? We all know it will work off of 110/120v

I'll let someone else determine that... Saving .2 amp or .4 amp for $10 in electrical connectors is not worth it to me, when I already have an inverter from 12V to 120V. 21 watts or 17 watts, for the amount of hours I watch TV, is pretty insignificant.

ABSOLUTELY !!! What's all the argument over power consumption for anyway ???? :h I just don't get it. Put the remote, bag of chips & can of beer down & go outside. An inverter makes more sense than anything. Using one allows for the purchase of ANY TV you want, without a second thought.:S

I am using a 23" 12v DC Sceptre brand that works quite well and has a built in DVD player too.

To sum up all the advice Choose one or choose the other either has drawbacks that only the user can weigh

What I wanted to add is that just because a brick or wall wart says it puts out 12v doesn't mean it puts out exactly 12v. I have boxes of them that I'll pull from for small projects like testing LEDs and I have to test each to find out what it really puts out. Often they are well above the stated output and not by just a volt or two.

Yes often true, IF these are transformer and diode rectifier based, designed for a specific application and load, a no load voltage test will read high
rather switching style power supplies which will read near correct open circuit no load or load

I found in both my Wilderness and now Sunnybrook TT that both manufacturers wired the TV's together on a single circuit. 12v tv's are few and expensive, regular tvs more affordable. I bought for my fist TT a 1200watt Xantrax inverter and disconnected the television circuit from the shore power box. Put a plug on it and plugged it in to the Xantrax. Now with my Sunnybrook I did exactly the same thing but with a 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter. The Sunnybrook also captured a couple of outlets. We watch tv, it powers the satellite, charge phones ipads laptops, make coffee. I have the remote on off switch and just turn it on. When we are plugged into shore power, the tvs use so little juice its no biggy and the onboard inverter just charges the batteries. We dry camp as much if not more than fhu, so this works for us. Also I have two Trojan 125's 6volt golf cart batteries. So we buy whatever tv we want I have a 24 in the bedroom and will be getting a 32 for the living room.

I was using a TV/DVD combo that I replace the brick with a 12v cord, worked fine charging or not. Now my Satellite system is 120v so I went back to 120v for both.

What I wanted to add is that just because a brick or wall wart says it puts out 12v doesn't mean it puts out exactly 12v. I have boxes of them that I'll pull from for small projects like testing LEDs and I have to test each to find out what it really puts out. Often they are well above the stated output and not by just a volt or two. One wart rated at 12v put out over 17v and I used it to see if the eBay LEDS would be damaged at higher voltages. They were not.

One thing about going 12v is you don't have to worry about how clean your inverter power is and save a lot not needing a psw unit.

Salvo wrote:
I don't believe it.

I don't care.