What makes you think savings are just 0.2 - 0.4A when applying 12V direct? Why do folks use a kill-a-watt meter? You should be using an ampmeter! After all, we're interested in amps not watts.
These brick supplies have a notorious high PF. Have you taken that into account? If your tv measures 21W with a PF of 0.8, then the real load is 21W/.8 = 26.25W. If your inverter is 85% efficient then battery load is 26.25W/.85 = 30.9W.
The brick may be 85% efficient. So the actual tv consumes 21W * .85 = 17.58W.
You reduce the power consumption by 1 - 30.9W/17.58W = 75% when bypassing the brick and inverter.
There's a lot of speculation in my calculations. It's so much easier the just measure current!
NinerBikes wrote:
I'll let someone else determine that... Saving .2 amp or .4 amp for $10 in electrical connectors is not worth it to me, when I already have an inverter from 12V to 120V. 21 watts or 17 watts, for the amount of hours I watch TV, is pretty insignificant.