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landyacht318's avatar
landyacht318
Explorer
Mar 03, 2014

12v Mattress heating pad woes

Last night was kinda chilly.
An hour before climbing into bed I, plug my 'watts up' meter inline with my mattress heating pad, crank it up to 7, check out the amp draw, and see it is only half of normal.

Sure enough, I climb into bed, and only half the mattress pad is heating up.

Drat.

I have a suspicion that perhaps this failure was caused by something I recently did to the product.

What I did was remove about 5 feet of 18 awg wire from between the controller and the Ciggy plug, and the Ciggy plug itself, and replaced it with a 45 amp Anderson Powerpole connector at the end of 10 awg wire. Voltage drop went from over 2 volts, to 0.2 volts just by eliminating 2 ciggy plug receptacles and plugs. I say 2 ciggy plug receptacles as I was plugging the mattress pad's heating plug into an extension cord into which I could easily insert the 'watts up' generic meter inline and see how much Juice I used overnight.


What I also found interesting, is that the Ciggy plug, which I had earlier thought to be of a better design than most others, has no Internal fuse, like most every other ciggy plug I ever opened. I assume the fuse has been moved to inside the controller itself.


When the ciggy plug receptacles warmed up, and the voltage drop increased to over two volts, the amp draw lowered to about 4.2.

After the powerpole swap, the amp draw had increased to 6.8 amps, and the mattress heating pad heated up much faster, and all was good in my microcosm.

Until yesterday, when only half the mattress pad worked.

So was this failure induced by me minimizing the voltage drop, or just co-incidence and the failure is due to 3 winters of sleeping on the pad and breakdown of the wires inside?


I assume there are no serviceable parts inside the blanket itself and that is where the failure lies. Concur?
I'd rather not spend 90$ on a new one, but it has been a nice luxury the last few winters I'd rather not live without.

14 Replies

  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    X2 what MR WIZZARD says. I use PSW Inverter here to power up my 120VAC heating pads. Have one dual pad on the bed and the wife has a smaller version she like to have on her lap sitting around the cool trailer sometimes watching HDTV... No problems after 5 years of use so far...

    When I first got my OFF-ROAD Trailer I hit the local truck stops and picked up around $200 of trucker 12VDC appliances... Came away with a couple of arms full of items haha.. The only thing that survived after one year was some handy 12VDC lights. I was flabbergasted the 12VDC coffee pot taking almost 7 hours to make a pot of coffee hehe... The 12VDC portable vacuum units lasted a few times of use and didn't do well either. Everything that was over 5AMPS DC burned up all my 12VDC cigarette light plugs after an hour or so of us... Everything except the clamp on lights and the coffee pot went to King George dump. I use the coffee pot to pour oil with...

    my story and I'm sticking with it...
    Roy Ken
  • Well the specs claimed a 6.2 amp draw, but due to the increasing voltage drop as the connections heated up, the current dropped along with the voltage.

    My powerpole modifications made it a steady 6.8 amps which is not 50% over the baseline 6.2a, but perhaps the engineers expected the voltage drop and the resulting drop in amperage too.

    But since they recommend these for truckers and they say to turn on the mattress heating pad a few hours before turning off the engine, they would have to figure in battery charging voltages making it to the ciggy receptacle. Even with 2 volts drop across the ciggy plug from 14.4 that leaves 12.4v which is all my ciggy plug was ever really fed. Could there really be so little overhead engineered into such a device?

    I am not accounting for the 5 feet of 18 awg cable I cut off between controller and ciggy plug. Certainly the voltage across that 5 feet between plug and controller, which I did not measure, was also significant.

    I hate to be one of those people fishing for what I want to hear and dismissing any opinions that do not do so. What I want to hear is that the failure was likely caused by 3 winters of use and abuse my my 220 lb frame wearing out the wiring. I don't want to hear that I have to artificially limit the current by planned voltage drop into a replacement pad or risk premature failure.

    I wonder if I can determine if the failure was wear and tear related, or if it was induced by me reducing the voltage drop through a shorter circuit path and elimination of one of the poorest ubiquitous connectors ever designed.

    That extra 5 feet of 18 awg wire was always in the way. I was glad to be rid of it. I'd hate to think its elimination was the cause of the failure.

    I wonder what the life expectancy is for such a device.
    I'd consider 120v models now that I have a Quiet PSW inverter, but I really liked this 12v unit, while it lasted.
  • landyacht318 wrote:
    .... and the failure is due to 3 winters of sleeping on the pad and breakdown of the wires inside?


    Unless the design of the pad depended upon XXX amount of voltage drop in the wiring - which you changed - then I suspect breakdown of the wiring from use was the cause .... probably the wires in the pad itself.

    This can happen in 120V AC heating pads and electric blankets too. It has happened to me many times down through the years as I keep wearing out and periodically replacing electric blankets and heating pads in our home.
  • its possible even probable, you increased current 50%,

    the problems you mention
    are one of the reasons, i shy away from 12v pads and prefer 120v pads and blankets, yes i loose a little efficiency using the inverter, but i gain reliably
    and i don't have to worry about 12v wiring and power plugs and voltage drop
    any drop is at the batteries & inverter not the 120v output to the pad/blanket

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