Forum Discussion

flrp's avatar
flrp
Explorer
Oct 08, 2014

2011 Chevy Silverado OEM brake controller

The brake controller use to be set at 3.5 when the vehicle was new (2011)and the brakes on the 5th wheel functions properly. I now have the controller set at 8 to obtain the same braking capability as I had when set at 3.5. I had the brakes on the 5th wheel adjusted after which I still had to have the brake controller set on 8. I just purchased a new 5th wheel and on that unit I still must have the controller set on 8 to achieve proper braking capability. I am under the impression that the more pressure applied to the brake pedal the voltage is increased to the magnetic brakes on the 5th wheel increasing the stopping power. Is that correct? While the 8 brake controller setting is working, my concern is the max setting on the brake controller is 10 and I am getting close to that setting. I did have a 5th wheel plug installed in the left side of the pickup bed for ease of connecting the 5th wheel female plug. I took the Silverado to the Chevy dealer and had the brake controller checked out and I was told it is functioning properly.

Any suggestions
  • I run mine at 4 with a single axle, 6.5 with a dual axle and 8 with a triple axle and have since new. I would say there may be a high resistance somewhere in the line between the controller and the trailer brakes, "probably" in the section you added.
  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    I think you need to determine that all brakes on the trailer are getting brake control voltage.

    One method is to use a CAMPING COMPASS next to each wheel and see if it deflects when manual brake control is applied.

    My 5th wheel BRAKE MAGNETs make a tone noise when DC VOLTAGE is applied to them...

    Also each BRAKE MAGNET will pull 3AMPS of DC current if you have a way to read that...

    Maybe your BRAKE WIRING MOD has eliminated two of your BRAKE wiring paths???

    Just a thought that went thru my mind when I read you added some additional new wiring...

    Another NOTE when pressing down your BRAKE PEDAL on the truck when sitting still. My FORD TRUCK iOEM BRAKE setup is computer savy and the BRAKE FOOT PEDAL is disengaged from the BRAKE SYSTEM going back to the trailer is the speedometer is not indicating higher than 10MPH... Chevy may be doing the same thing. When I use the manual slide lever the TRAILER BRAKES work just fine when sitting still.

    Roy Ken
  • I run 8.5 on mine to get proper braking. Fiver weight is posted below.
  • Mine runs at 5.5 on my 2012. You may need to check the wires on the back side of your truck receptacle for corrosion.

    2 different trailers - same problem. Common denominator is the truck.
  • I set mine on 10 seven years ago and it still works just as good as it did then. I infrequently adjust the trailer brakes myself.
    Dave
  • Mine is set at 7 and works just fine for my dual axle trailers as well as my RV.
  • My feeling is that you have a problem in the trailer, but not the truck. It is quite common for the wiring connectors in the braking system to corrode and cause a loss of voltage and amperage. I'd pull the connectors at the wiring junctions, make sure the wires are clean and twisted tightly, apply dielectric grease and tighten the terminals carefully and tape them so that they don't vibrate loose. If your trailer uses the Scotchlocks, replace with crimp or twist-on wiring nuts. Check the wiring with your voltmeter or test light to see that the magnets are properly energized. That's where I would start.

    Of course it's easy enough to test the output of your truck with a voltmeter or even a simple test light. The more brake you apply, the more voltage and the brighter the tester bulb should be.

    My Arctic Fox 29-5T fifth wheel is pretty heavy for it's size and I set my ITBC output at 5 and the trailer brakes work just fine.

About Technical Issues

Having RV issues? Connect with others who have been in your shoes.24,188 PostsLatest Activity: Jan 17, 2025