2014 Freedom Elite 21c 12V Issue

Solved issue - With some help from the best RV Tech in Sanford, FL. Turned out the 50Amp reset button is located behind a drawer under the oven. (No where near where the manual said). I had looked everywhere but there for it and began to think it didn't exist. It was tripped. Also gave the battery terminal connections a proper cleaning.

With a meter you should be able to diagnose the problem by finding where power is present and where there is none.

If you have a shore connection and power is present from the WFCO converter, your measurement at the batteries should be 13.5V or greater. That will indicate if there is charging to the batteries.

If you can measure power at the DC fuse panel it should also be 13.5V+. If the shore power connection is removed and you are operating only on battery power, the voltage at the DC fuse panel will be lower or the same measurement across the batteries. If not, you have an open between the batteries and the DC distribution panel. Typical problem would be a tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse. If the mfg states it's behind the converter it may be on the converter itself or a stand alone case with a button. It may be quite small. Most are a small tin case with a small reset button, the diameter of pencil lead. Some are colored red.

Good luck on finding the 12V DC problem. Also, if you have new deep cycle batteries, the WFCO products are known by many to not deliver full charging output to batteries. The WFCO will provide power to the coach but the low charge voltage will shorten battery life and make charging off the generator a long duration event. A replacement of the lower charging portion is the best cure. Bestconverter.com sells a slide-in Progressive Dynamics charging case that replaces the WFCO.

Thanks I'll try this!

You say that everything works on shore or gen, which means the converter is working on its 120v input and makes "12v" output like it should. But, you are not getting any "12v" from the batteries.

The re-set 12v circuit breaker you are looking for is not behind the converter, it is within 18" of the house battery positive post. It might even be a non-resettable CB, or even a glass fuse, or even a blade fuse, usually of amps to match the converter's amps rating. It could even be one of those but all corroded.

You need a multimeter to check voltages until you find where the "open" is between house battery and converter.

Trouble shoot by starting either at the battery using a test light or volt meter. Or start at the at the 120 supply (use a meter) for the (rather poor) WFCO converter.