27DCs and SG Lag Problems
Here is what I mean. Got two rebuilt 27DCs from Interstate as "Econo Power" models, which means they are whatever brand and type they decided to renew and sell at under half price. So just right fo...
Forum Discussion
MEET THE CURRENT REGULATORS (amperage limiter)
https://www.amazon.com/EIKO-100A-RS-12V-Frosted-Service/dp/B0030B0OIO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521912993&sr=8-2&keywords=12+volt+100-watt+screw+in+light+bulb
https://www.amazon.com/Halco-101160-Light-Frost-Lumens/dp/B002I9R036/ref=sr_1_16?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521913455&sr=1-16&keywords=12+volt+50+watt+screw+in+light+bulb
Put them IN LINE WITH a 12-volt charger cable and the 12-volt bulb cannot pass more than about 8.4 amps and substitute the 50 watt bulb and the voltage current is LIMITED TO 4.2 amperes.
It is a series RESISTOR and yes the current rises slightly as voltage rises from 12.7 volts to a finish to 16.0 volts but not enough to matter. Sue me.
The voltage source MUST MUST have more than 8-amps potential at 16.0 volts. Means using a MANUAL charger. Capable of providing current AND voltage. The old harbor fright 10-amp charger could do this. So can a Meanwell RSP-15-100, 200, yadda --- 1500 power supply.
I have a single
The base and wire stubs INTERRUPT the battery charger POSITIVE cable lead. No longer does the charger's positive cable get connected directly to the battery positive post. Clip the charger's positive clip to either one of the wire stubs hanging off the ceramic light bulb base. Then connect the OTHER lamp base wire stub to the battery positive post. Got it?
Nothing is done to the charger's NEGATIVE wire. It remains connected directly from charger to battery NEGATIVE post. Clear?
Turn charger on. Forget about what the 12-volt light bulb does when glowing. Strong / weak, dim it does not matter. This is a current limiting circuit, not a drop light.
The battery will charge with a limited current. And that is exactly what you are looking for.
Slow but sure the voltage will rise to sixteen volts. It's up to you and you alone to shut the charger off at soon as the battery reaches 16 volts.
https://www.amazon.com/EIKO-100A-RS-12V-Frosted-Service/dp/B0030B0OIO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521912993&sr=8-2&keywords=12+volt+100-watt+screw+in+light+bulb
https://www.amazon.com/Halco-101160-Light-Frost-Lumens/dp/B002I9R036/ref=sr_1_16?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521913455&sr=1-16&keywords=12+volt+50+watt+screw+in+light+bulb
Put them IN LINE WITH a 12-volt charger cable and the 12-volt bulb cannot pass more than about 8.4 amps and substitute the 50 watt bulb and the voltage current is LIMITED TO 4.2 amperes.
It is a series RESISTOR and yes the current rises slightly as voltage rises from 12.7 volts to a finish to 16.0 volts but not enough to matter. Sue me.
The voltage source MUST MUST have more than 8-amps potential at 16.0 volts. Means using a MANUAL charger. Capable of providing current AND voltage. The old harbor fright 10-amp charger could do this. So can a Meanwell RSP-15-100, 200, yadda --- 1500 power supply.
I have a single
- Go to the hardware store
- Purchase a CERAMIC base screw-in lightbulb base
- Buy two feet of #12 single wire
- NAPA stores sell the 50, and 100 watt light bulbs
- So truck on over and get
- A SINGLE 50-watt bulb for a single group 24 or 27 battery
- A single 100 watt light bulb for a pair of golf car batteries. Get a pair of battery charger wire clips -- they're cheap
- At home turn the ceramic light bulb bases over. There are two screws
- Cut the foot long wire in half. Strip the ends, all four of them
- Wire one 6" stub to one terminal,wire the other 6" stub to the OTHER light bulb base terminal
- Flip the base back over
- Wire one charger clip to one wire end. Wire the end of the other stub with the 2nd clip.
The base and wire stubs INTERRUPT the battery charger POSITIVE cable lead. No longer does the charger's positive cable get connected directly to the battery positive post. Clip the charger's positive clip to either one of the wire stubs hanging off the ceramic light bulb base. Then connect the OTHER lamp base wire stub to the battery positive post. Got it?
Nothing is done to the charger's NEGATIVE wire. It remains connected directly from charger to battery NEGATIVE post. Clear?
Turn charger on. Forget about what the 12-volt light bulb does when glowing. Strong / weak, dim it does not matter. This is a current limiting circuit, not a drop light.
The battery will charge with a limited current. And that is exactly what you are looking for.
Slow but sure the voltage will rise to sixteen volts. It's up to you and you alone to shut the charger off at soon as the battery reaches 16 volts.
