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BFL13's avatar
BFL13
Explorer II
Mar 23, 2018

27DCs and SG Lag Problems

Here is what I mean. Got two rebuilt 27DCs from Interstate as "Econo Power" models, which means they are whatever brand and type they decided to renew and sell at under half price. So just right for my purpose. But first to get them up to speed at home same as any battery first thing off the shelf before using it.

The batts seem to be Johnson Controls, all black, weigh 58 lbs, and are marked 27DC-845. Original date 5F (assumed to be June, 2015)

Doing one at a time, put the VEC1093 40 amper on them and let it get to "Full", which I know isn't quite full. I then ran an Equalize as I normally do to get to "real full" and it ran for a couple hours at 15.7v until it said Full.

SG all across was 1.300, so looking good. Then I ran my 10 hour 20 hour rate load test in hopes of finding out what the AH capacity is of the mystery battery (no rating shown--the 845 is no doubt the marine cranking)

It did take 10 hours to get to 50% SOC at 5 amps (I picked 100AH as most likely result) and proved 50% by seeing 1.200 SG and bounce back overnight to 12.17 volts. AH down from full was 51.6 by Trimetric, so Capacity came out as 103.6 AH at the 20 hr rate.

Now the fun part--recharge from 50% after ONE deep draw down, never mind after doing several 50-90s in a row.

Put the charger on same as before starting at 40.4 amps and let it run at 14.8v till it said "full" Sure enough SG was only 1.245ish in the white. So ran an Equalize which took a couple hours at 15.7 and SG was now 1.260ish. Ran a second Equalize for another couple hours till it said Full, and SG now 1.265ish, just barely into the green.

Rats! This is just like old times with 27s :( I used to tip them on their sides at this stage to try to get them up to full SG. But today I have a new weapon I did not have eight years ago-- my PowerMax Adjustable that can do 16.5 volts (with 15 minute shots, so you have to be there to keep doing that. It drops one volt after the first 15 minutes, and then stays at that--15.5 in this case, so unplug and start again at 16.5)

So after two of those--30 minutes at 16.5, the darned SG has hardly moved up at all still 1.265ish. I decided to give it time to cool down when SG will go up a bit with colder fluid, and I will leave the batt on float overnight at 13.8 and give it another kick or two tomorrow.

So what's with these 27s anyway???? There they were at 1.300 and you do ONE drop to 50% and it is like pulling teeth to even get back into the green, never mind 1.275 or above. I hate 27s !!!!!!
-------------
Background info--not needed unless you are bored :)
Eight years ago, I swore off 27s because of my difficulties getting them back to proper full as seen by hydrometer readings. No such problems with 6s or the Trojan 12v T-1275s I have been using since. They come right up. No fuss.

I just got these two 27DCs as a stop-gap for rounding out the battery bank now that my two T-1275s finally died, and I need two batts to go with my six-year old pair of 6s that are still going but for only another year most likely. (I need about a 400AH bank) Then next year I can start over with all new whatever.

89 Replies

  • Don't feel pregnant...

    I got processed r-e-a-l good with those Douglas Wal-Mart rags.

    I guess we all need a "it cost me sixty dollars to save twenty dollars" reminder

    Fighting specific gravity id s hallmark of a scumbag grade battery. At least your head is screwed on right BFL13 and you understand what you are working with.

    I still have that "It's the only group 34 in a 150-mile radius "Gohner" calcium/calcium starter battery in the toad. Now 5-years old. I refuse to cycle it -5 amp hours. It'll die the death of a piñata -- take a washboard road and exit with .006" plates. I wouldn't be afraid to drop the platform and squeeze a 31 in there. There would be a line up of people ready to pay me 500 pesos for the Gonad, I mean Gohner.
  • BFL13 wrote:
    Here is what I mean. Got two rebuilt 27DCs from Interstate as "Econo Power" models, which means they are whatever brand and type they decided to renew and sell at under half price. So just right for my purpose. But first to get them up to speed at home same as any battery first thing off the shelf before using it.

    The batts seem to be Johnson Controls, all black, weigh 58 lbs, and are marked 27DC-845. Original date 5F (assumed to be June, 2015)

    Doing one at a time, put the VEC1093 40 amper on them and let it get to "Full", which I know isn't quite full. I then ran an Equalize as I normally do to get to "real full" and it ran for a couple hours at 15.7v until it said Full.

    SG all across was 1.300, so looking good. Then I ran my 10 hour 20 hour rate load test in hopes of finding out what the AH capacity is of the mystery battery (no rating shown--the 845 is no doubt the marine cranking)

    It did take 10 hours to get to 50% SOC at 5 amps (I picked 100AH as most likely result) and proved 50% by seeing 1.200 SG and bounce back overnight to 12.17 volts. AH down from full was 51.6 by Trimetric, so Capacity came out as 103.6 AH at the 20 hr rate.

    Now the fun part--recharge from 50% after ONE deep draw down, never mind after doing several 50-90s in a row.

    Put the charger on same as before starting at 40.4 amps and let it run at 14.8v till it said "full" Sure enough SG was only 1.245ish in the white. So ran an Equalize which took a couple hours at 15.7 and SG was now 1.260ish. Ran a second Equalize for another couple hours till it said Full, and SG now 1.265ish, just barely into the green.

    Rats! This is just like old times with 27s :( I used to tip them on their sides at this stage to try to get them up to full SG. But today I have a new weapon I did not have eight years ago-- my PowerMax Adjustable that can do 16.5 volts (with 15 minute shots, so you have to be there to keep doing that. It drops one volt after the first 15 minutes, and then stays at that--15.5 in this case, so unplug and start again at 16.5)

    So after two of those--30 minutes at 16.5, the darned SG has hardly moved up at all still 1.265ish. I decided to give it time to cool down when SG will go up a bit with colder fluid, and I will leave the batt on float overnight at 13.8 and give it another kick or two tomorrow.

    So what's with these 27s anyway???? There they were at 1.300 and you do ONE drop to 50% and it is like pulling teeth to even get back into the green, never mind 1.275 or above. I hate 27s !!!!!!
    -------------
    Background info--not needed unless you are bored :)
    Eight years ago, I swore off 27s because of my difficulties getting them back to proper full as seen by hydrometer readings. No such problems with 6s or the Trojan 12v T-1275s I have been using since. They come right up. No fuss.

    I just got these two 27DCs as a stop-gap for rounding out the battery bank now that my two T-1275s finally died, and I need two batts to go with my six-year old pair of 6s that are still going but for only another year most likely. (I need about a 400AH bank) Then next year I can start over with all new whatever.


    So.......you new that a calcium/calcium is not good at 50% discharge and you expected something different? The person who forgets the past is destined to relive it? As I'm sure you know 15 to 25% is about the best you can get (and still difficult to top off)
  • Even trojan's group 27 is rated at only half the total cycles as the t-105's. It is still a marine battery. How hard it is to max out the SG a deep cycle is unknown until someone actually accumulates some data.

    but most with flooded 27s should likely avoid the hydrometer and just complain properly when the time inevitably and prematurely comes, where they' no longer hold a charge' and need to be replaced.

    'Ignorance it bliss' has more value when one is cycling flooded marine batteries. They are 'Just fine' until the day they are not.

    Cue the long lived group 27 stories, but with no data as to how many and how deep the cycles were.
  • BFL13 wrote:
    These refurb 27s act the same as my 27s did back when I had new ones. Same exact problem. Very hard to get the SG back up after a discharge to 50%.

    I don't think it has to do with being new or used. However, a large number of RVers have 27s, so it makes me wonder how they ever get theirs charged back up---if they ever do.

    Perhaps I am just not doing it right. Maybe what works so well with 6s and T-1275s does not work with 27s? So what does work?


    I think the biggest thing is that they sit plugged into shore power between uses. Regular 27 dual purpose cant really be compared to 6's which are deep cycle. I was joking but in fairness you'd need something like real Trojan gp 27 deep cycle to compare to GC2 6's. Apples to apples.

    I have four regular dual purpose 27's that are 2008, 20012, 2015 and 2016 but they dont get used the way you were testing them. They operate in the upper level and never discharged that low.
  • The screwy 31 was similar, the only way to get Sg to 1.275+ after the first deep cycle was a 16v EQ charge. I just had to accept the walk down in SG despite high absorption voltages held for hours daily.

    Could not really go for more than 15 regular 'full' charges before the EQ was necessary.

    I think Flooded marine batteries in the 24/27/29/31 group sizes should be avoided for 50% cycling duty. I think this size of flooded battery is simply best for starting, and perhaps shallow cycling duties.
  • These refurb 27s act the same as my 27s did back when I had new ones. Same exact problem. Very hard to get the SG back up after a discharge to 50%.

    I don't think it has to do with being new or used. However, a large number of RVers have 27s, so it makes me wonder how they ever get theirs charged back up---if they ever do.

    Perhaps I am just not doing it right. Maybe what works so well with 6s and T-1275s does not work with 27s? So what does work?
  • OOOOKKKK..

    So, you bought USED batteries and expect them to perform like new??



    THEN complain when they don't???



    You DO realize they DON'T "refurb" them, right?

    Here is the deal with "refurbs", if a item is sold and leaves the store, then returned as a "problem" it can no longer be resold as "new".

    The returned item gets sent back to the manufacturer, they TEST IT and if it passes they CAN send it back to the stores to be resold as REFURBED.. EVEN IF THEY DID NOTHING TO IT, BUT TEST IT.

    Feel "cheated"?

    Well you DID get it for a "good price", right?

    Next time, skip the "refurbs" and buy NEW.

    Sometimes it simply is not worth the hassle and heartache being cheap.
  • But but if one dies then you still have another unlike 6's.....;)

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