3d printers for making stuff for the RV

Gdetrailer wrote:
However, given the size, it would take a huge 3d printer, consume a lot of filament and take more time than feasible to be cost effective.

The original was a 2-piece design. If size was a consideration, you could probably design it as a 3-piece.

This is a product that would lend it's self to be more cost and time effective via vacuum formed methods. A lot of sign companies which make outdoor lighted signs often have vacuum forming equipment.. Just need a form made up in the size and shape you want and the plastic sheet is heated and then vacuumed down over the form.. Once formed cut out the openings.

That's a good point.

Design a variable-size mold for it, put everything in a truck or trailer, and take it to Quartzite and other RV rallies to sell made-to-order window covers...

I saw This Post awhile back,I sure wish I could get one of these.:B

Having read the last link and that there are places to do the printing, how would a person get/make the file to make those window covers? Would you need the actual product before you could make more or how?

Fisherman wrote:
Having read the last link and that there are places to do the printing, how would a person get/make the file to make those window covers? Would you need the actual product before you could make more or how?

You need a 3d model.

Basically you need to start out with something like a CAD drawing in 3d, there are special 3d handheld scanners that can also be used if you already have a physical item you want to make copies of.

So, draw the design, create or render into a 3d model then to print the output must go through a slicing software that cuts the 3d model into to printing layers..

HERE is a good primer on 3d printing..

Skibane wrote:


The original was a 2-piece design. If size was a consideration, you could probably design it as a 3-piece.

Yeah, I remember seeing pictures of it in a catalog long long ago and it was two piece to allow adjustments for different window sizes.

One could make it in multiple pieces if one wanted to, but once again, most personal size 3D printers tend to have a rather small printing space.

HERE is one I randomly selected that has a larger printing table of 8.6"x8.6"..

Now if you are talking industrial 3d printers, that is a bit different but once again a large 3d part will take a lot of filament and time to print and commercial sized printers will be expensive to buy for this use.

Gdetrailer wrote:
Company I used to work at used 3d printing for proof of concept and engineering mockups for some of their new products..

Works great for that.

However, strength and desired finish can be less than stellar at times since the plastic is applied in layers rather than all at once.

Because of that, they had actual traditional injection molds made for actual production runs for parts that strength and looks were critical.

But, hey, you have it, you like it, may as well use it.

it depends on the type of filiment you use and the orentation you print it in, you can build it strong. injection molding it more for the high capasity and speed. 3d printers are not known for knocing out the parts and in that world time is money.


I have only don't a couple prints on mine so far. its working great, but I am waiting for a few upgrades to come in then I have to dial it in all over..

I bought one for an rv project and that was it, I thought it might be a toy. I now will never not own one.

I design 99% of what I print with Fusion360. most are functional parts and are impressively strong. I primarily print in PETG

StirCrazy wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:
Company I used to work at used 3d printing for proof of concept and engineering mockups for some of their new products..

Works great for that.

However, strength and desired finish can be less than stellar at times since the plastic is applied in layers rather than all at once.

Because of that, they had actual traditional injection molds made for actual production runs for parts that strength and looks were critical.

But, hey, you have it, you like it, may as well use it.

it depends on the type of filiment you use and the orentation you print it in, you can build it strong. injection molding it more for the high capasity and speed. 3d printers are not known for knocing out the parts and in that world time is money.


I have only don't a couple prints on mine so far. its working great, but I am waiting for a few upgrades to come in then I have to dial it in all over..

Speed, type of filament, thickness of each layer all play a part in the final outcome in finish and strength.

For one of the prototype printouts I have worked with, they may have used larger, thicker slices because the main part was pretty large at a little over 2ft x 2ft and 8" tall for the main body.

We were tasked with the job of stuffing the box with a micro ATX system board, several power supplies, a scale, a touch screen monitor some imaging cameras with lots and lots of wiring. Screw holes that were supposed to mount many of the items inside the box easily stripped out, often would not hold things in place.

Had to be careful on how you handled the box as it was very easy to crack the box and the device would have to be torn apart and the box scrapped.

For the actual production runs, the engineers moved to a injection molded setup and had thread brass nuts embbeded in the plastic.. Much better strength and once we were no longer attempting to screw directly into the plastic the screw issue was gone..

Small items, strength and speed become a moot point.

Gdetrailer wrote:
Screw holes that were supposed to mount many of the items inside the box easily stripped out, often would not hold thinks in place.

I've had great results with heat inserts such as THESE. It takes a heated insertion tool and properly sized holes.

The screw in type inserts fail, press in type are hit-n-miss.

Not there yet but on wishlist

Thingiverse Good place to shop for projects

https://www.thingiverse.com/