4@12v = 24v

(4) 12v wired for 24v
get wired
exactly the same way as
(4) 6v wired for 12v

you want balanced load when using high amps like MW .. coffee maker ... hair dryer ? etc

BFL13 wrote:
Converters etc that are frame grounded need the battery neg grounded to the frame, so just where does your DC DC get grounded to the frame or what?

It's not grounded to the frame.

In order to properly balance six batteries you will need a bus bar.
Second best is configutation 3 in the US Battery link posted above.

Yes, that makes the first choice now balanced. Smk suggests using the inner posts. If you could rotate some of the batteries, you could have the two load wires closest to the inverter and still be balanced if wire length matters.

I like that whole business using 24v. If I had a 24v inverter, I would put my two 12s in series and also do the solar as a 24 for that bank.

Please link your DC DC again. Can't remember how that set-up works off the 24.

Not clear on frame grounding for the 12v stuff. Converters etc that are frame grounded need the battery neg grounded to the frame, so just where does your DC DC get grounded to the frame or what? Thanks.

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Two more batts would make three pairs. Balancing three batts is a pain, but you can pretend it is two and put loads on the outside (not perfect), or else do it right putting the loads to busses which then have equal length wires to each of the three

If I decide to add 2 more batts, the only way that can be done is with the config I show in my last post. Or so it seems to me.

2oldman wrote:
Moving the neg cable as shown in the dashed line is balanced, yes? (NOT connecting the solid line)

Yes.

Moving the neg cable as shown in the dashed line is balanced, yes? (NOT connecting the solid line)




The batts have to sit in that physical configuration in my tray..or at least they used to when I had to water them!

BFL13 wrote:
I can't remember if you are a balancing believer or not.
Where do you tap off your 12v and get your 12v ground to the frame for the 12v items that use the frame for neg to battery?

It's kind of a toss up in my mind, but it can't hurt.

12v tap is a DC/DC converter. I guess the Mfr did the 12v grounding. All I've ever done is ground the inverter.

This is how I have the 2000w inverter wired to its own bank of two T-1275s. No extra linking wires needed.



It gets messy if you want to monitor with a Trimetric shunt on "the neg post" but the idea still works. (You can't then keep the pos and neg the same wire lengths) I ran it that way from four 6s in the past. Saved having to use parallel links.

( I have the rest of the rig on its own battery bank so there is no connection with this bank as shown so I think that would be similar to having a separate 24v bank, so the method shown should work ok)

Roadpilot wrote:
SMK is right again.

+1

SMK is right again.