50 amp service, Inverter vs Converter

You gutted it
What are you going to do with it ?
Why do you think you need a 50 amp service ( 2 legs 120v_50 amp = 100 amps 120v )

In an 18 ft trailer, mobile work shop? Big welder, wood working equipment?

You don't have room for a large battery bank, so a small inverter for entertainment is All you need, you won't have the battery power for MW etc..
Use a converter for charging your two batteries, And dedicated outlets run directly from the inverter (not the breaker panel) for the tv etc

I think on a 18ft. Trailer going for 50 amps is BIG over-kill. More money, more complication, and I can't think of any benefit.

Unless you're planning on a large true sine wave inverter to power everything(that you don't want to pay the big bucks for a converter/inverter leads me to think you want to power electronic "stuff"), trying to get AC to all outlets is probably more trouble and expense than necessary.

Everything essential is on 12V DC.

I installed a heavy (10 gage, fused at the battery) 12 Volt line directly to a cig-lighter outlet near the entertainment center. When we want to watch a flick dry camping, I just plug in my 150 watt pure sine wave inverter and use it to power the TV & DVD. Many electronics will work with a MSW inverter which is even cheaper (my TV will, DVD won't). I have a 12V to double USB converter for small electronics, and 12V chargers for cell phones, and camera batteries.

Doug

With an 18' trailer, you can probably save the expense of a transfer switch by wiring in an inverter and using a multi-tap strip to run cords the short distance to the appliances.

FWIW, I rewired my trailer with 50 amp service when I restored it. It is no more work than installing a 30 amp service. Prices start to rise when using a 50 amp power inlet and a 50 amp cord (they don't give those away).
Good luck with your project!

Two ways rv's are wired, this is customized for a trailer w/o a generator

Shore--Main breaker box === lines from branch breakers to assorted loads.
(IE: television, entainerment, Microwave, Water heater, Fridge, Converter, Otlets and air conditioners)

and with an inverter

Shore--Main--Branch breakers to heavy loads (A/C, W/H, Fridge and optionally converter,, and ONE more breaker (big one) to the inverter/charger's AC in terminals)

(shore-Main-Branch to inverter)--INVERTER---Sub panel (NOTE)--Smaller loads like TV/entairment center, Microwave, Outlets

NOTE that the sub panel may be built into the inverter/converter

If you have a generator and auto transfer switch it is the same as above but

Generator to ATS
Shore to ATS
Ats to Main box as above.

Inverters come in 2x2xmany for this discussion

1a: inline, this type (Described above) auto transfers from Shore to inverter, both charges batteries (When shore present) and uses them (when not) it is what I have and love, very good UPS.

2A: Stand alone: you need to provide manual switchign, only uses batteries, you will need independent charger/converter

1B: True sine wave
2B: MSW

Let me give you the list of things that will not work with a true sine wave inverter:

All devices needing more power than it can deliver.

Now,, on the list of things that eitehr will, or may not work properly on an MSW, that of course, starts the list.

And it is a very long list including some coffee pots, electric blanets, clocks and anything with a timer, NIGHT LIGHTS believe it or not.. in shore a long list.

on the other hand they may work fine.. but why risk it.

You need a transfer switch. Or plug the main cord into the inverter and then you are the transfer switch.

I have plugged into shore power with my inverter on with no problem.
I have a converter/chargwr and inverter is separate.