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DieselFreak250's avatar
DieselFreak250
Explorer
Apr 16, 2018

5'ver roof repair.

Hey everyone, new here, first post. so may be long ( going to be) and rambly forgive me, I was given a 1992 mallard sprinter. 28' fifth wheel, this thing has extreme water damage, I have to replace wall studs, rafters roof decking on both ends, and had to fix a corner of the floor with new decking. I do everything myself and Love wood working so its not an issue to work on this, I have carpentry skills. I had planed on remodeling this thing on the inside anyway, just hadn't planned on all the water damge. A little background on me, I am disable and on a Fixed income. I am not the one paying to repair the water damage. that is being paid for by the ones who gave the sprinter to me. Basically this is for me to live in sometimes and to be able to have my own place, It will not be towed at all, and if I ever did decide to tow it somewhere, it would not be far and wouldn't be but once or twice every few years or so,

Basically this is the situation, I need to replace the roof decking on the front and back of this thing. which means i need to peal the rubber roof back, the owner before me, silicone everything that was leaking with regular silicone. made a mess of the roof around the ladder and all those seems. he knew their was a leak but just covered everything up with silicone, and new paneling. anyway I want to take the rubber roof completely off, and do something different, the roof is the Original and from what i see from the inside it is a white rubber EPDM liner. just from the big gap from rotting deckboard. (i have to rebuild a whole new corner of this thing in the rear, floor to ceiling) Anyway for the roof decking I was thinking of doing Bedliner, or a liquid rubber right on the plywood decking, My budget for this project is very strict, I have been given $500 to redo the roof. Hence why i am looking at bedliner or liquid rubber. again this thing does not have to travel, and will not have to even be taged, Eventually i Plan on making a pergola over top of it with vines shading the roof. (may take a few years) So the roof has to give me at least 5-10 or better years of leak free hassel, So I come to you go folks to kind of help me with this roof situation.

thanks for any help you can give me.

(Mod if this is in wrong section please move)
  • map40's avatar
    map40
    Explorer
    Apr 20, 2018
    DieselFreak250 wrote:
    Grit Dog: its ok I can be defensive and come off as un greatful and ignorant, Never intend to come off that way its just how I am. But I don't worry about them. The roof is bassicly flat, it doesn't have a arch to it, well it does but its so small and the way the plywood is waving its almost not there. it basically a flat roof at this point. altho I never thought about the roll roof. but pricing it here locally is going to cost me almost $300.00 just for 3 rolls though it is an idea, I'll keep looking for a cheaper price of it, I'm still open to idea's I haven't finalized what I am using yet for the water proofer. still busy working on taking the old roof deck off and puting the new on.

    Just went out to inspect the roof again and it is flat on top with a slight ease on the sides.

    Also I was wondering the refrigerator in it is not the Original will i need a roof vent for it if i decided to move it to another location? right now it has the side panel to access the plug and the roof vent for the Original just want to remodel the Kitchen area so would I need a side vent and roof vent?


    If the roof is flat, add a pitch to it with the plywood if you can. nothing worse for an RV roof than a lake sitting on it.
    As far as the vent, you need it. The RV fridge is amonia based, so the cooling part HAS to be vented on the outside. If not, if there is a leak, the amonia can easily kill you.
  • DieselFreak250's avatar
    DieselFreak250
    Explorer
    Apr 20, 2018
    THe fridge isn't the Orignal and is not a gas type, the only thing on this thing that is GAS is the stove. and soon that won't be. I tried to find a model number but the sticker is missing, But I do know that it is just a eletric fridge, no gas hookup or anything.

    As far as the roof, I wish I had added more pitch, I should of,
  • DieselFreak250's avatar
    DieselFreak250
    Explorer
    Apr 20, 2018
    OK so Rain is comming sunday, I still have to finish tearing off the roof, but No one around here carries butyl tape, for the seams. and Even if I did oder it and over night it to me, Its to late in the day to get it by tomorrow, what would you recommend for the edgeing, I am going to use bedliner, but I am wondering if their is something at lowes or home depot, I may be able to get for the seams, I have reread this thread, and even miss some of your comments, I am sorry for that. and do thank you for your help. So what do you guys suggest.

    Map40 I reread your thread about using gorrilla tapeon the seams and then bedliner over it, I am not worried about pretty, I am more so worried about functionality, It reminds me of when i was testing drylok to water proof a playwood aquarium i used painters tape on a shoe box around the edges and then drylocked it and it held water just fine. it was a test before i did the big tank. So that is an option to use tape. once the bedliner has a nice thick coat on shouldn't have to worry about the tape ever coming up, I just never used bedliner so I'm not to sure, I could always drylock it first then bedliner over it lol. maybe over kill.

    Nmdriver 2 You mentioned bondo all purpose, would bondo Body filler work for the seams and edges, just trying to figure out things,

    And just a heads up I know on the first page someone wanted to be ignorant about my disability, i didn't see those post until after i reread this thread, I have a brain trauma, I can't work, BUt that doesn't stop me from doing phyical labor at my own pace. I wish i could work, I miss driving truck and All, and that is also why i may not catch your post or remember to respond to it. so please forgive me if I over look something...

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