675w Solar Installed w/Pictures
Photobucket no longer allows a link but the RV.net link through Imgur works great Some wanted to see these bad boys once completed so here you go. 3x Phono Solar 225w panels. These are 24v pa...
Forum Discussion
I will start from the top...
The panels have factory MC4 connectors. The pair are connected direct with a + and - pushed together. I bought a 6' MC4 cable to connect + of the single panel to the - of the other pair to complete the series circuit.
I bought a 100' MC4 cable and cut it close to the middle to bring power down to the switch. The switch is for 2 pole 240vac service. The wire from the panels is in the corregated wire loom and enters on the right in the picture. It enters the box through a two hole strain relief. Inside the box the + & - are connected to the LINE terminals at the top.
I zip tied the MC4 connectors on the roof so there would be no power coming down until the connections were safely made in the box.
I used 6' #10 red (+) and yellow (-) THHN building wire from the load side of the switch to the controller to mark polarity. These are the wires that drop behind the battery box and reemerges into the controller. (no hidden connections) Again I covered them with the corregated split loom for protection and clean look. You could just as easy mark the wire with colored tape to indicate polarity. Actually there was plenty of wire left over when I cut the 100' piece to length as it hit the switch.
The effect is both + and - from the panels are disconnected when the switch is off.
The green wire is just a case ground direct to the trailer frame.
The panels have factory MC4 connectors. The pair are connected direct with a + and - pushed together. I bought a 6' MC4 cable to connect + of the single panel to the - of the other pair to complete the series circuit.
I bought a 100' MC4 cable and cut it close to the middle to bring power down to the switch. The switch is for 2 pole 240vac service. The wire from the panels is in the corregated wire loom and enters on the right in the picture. It enters the box through a two hole strain relief. Inside the box the + & - are connected to the LINE terminals at the top.
I zip tied the MC4 connectors on the roof so there would be no power coming down until the connections were safely made in the box.
I used 6' #10 red (+) and yellow (-) THHN building wire from the load side of the switch to the controller to mark polarity. These are the wires that drop behind the battery box and reemerges into the controller. (no hidden connections) Again I covered them with the corregated split loom for protection and clean look. You could just as easy mark the wire with colored tape to indicate polarity. Actually there was plenty of wire left over when I cut the 100' piece to length as it hit the switch.
The effect is both + and - from the panels are disconnected when the switch is off.
The green wire is just a case ground direct to the trailer frame.
