96 rexhall dometic fridge shuts off

My 2000 Rose Air had a working RM 7332 Side by Side in it ... and I removed it , because I knew it would fail... one day... SOON !
I replaced it with a Magic Chef 10.1 cf from Home Depot for $359.
The MC is 59.5 inches tall ... and 24 on the other dimensions.
I did this on my 98 Bounder last year as well.
20 minutes to get cold ... Stays cold ... recovers QUICKLY ... and NO FIRE HAZARD !

I would NEVER-EVER trust my life ( and food ) ... to another absorbtion refrigerator.
I just used it for a 2 week trip to Florida ... ran my generator while driving ... and it stayed frozen the whole trip.

Richard / S. Carolina
2000 REXHALL Rose Air
2004 CRV

One of the first things i did was clean the burner and orifice..i have a nice blue flame across the entire length of the burner..theoretically if i use the same bbq lighter i used to physically test the coupler..i should be able to simulate the burner..if it stays lit with a bbq lighter heating it ..one would then assume the coupler or connection or adjustment is the culprit...correct ?
Peter

As mchero says, the rust bits from the chimney drop down and can build up on the burner. Regular cleaning is needed around the area on older rigs.

I was thinking connectors at one point...double checked my connections were in the correct position and then checked tightness and cleanliness.the connector is brand new as I replaced the coupler last fall to no avail..and now this year the board is brand new..i needed needle nose to pull the connectors off ..very tight fit..seem to recall last year with just replacing the coupler the fridge would light and within seconds ..shut off..this year with the addition of new board it stays lit for approx. 1 min..but shuts off everytime..no deviation..something is telling it to shut down..Has to be coupler no ? but its new and seems to test fine..1 thing i noticed was my meter read the millivolts in negative ..not sure its working right as it only momentarily read the dc voltage at the board..went from 12 volts to .439 volts...battery is a bit low..
Thx in adv
Peter

clean the electrical connections and use some deoxit on them.

My Norcold shutdown one evening and would not power-up. Im thinking this is going to be long night! Getting ready to pull and cleanup the board but decided to first take a look at the burner.
A piece of rust dropped out of burner tube and laid across the burner and sense/ignitor probe and must have shorted out. Cleaned out the rust and all back to normal.
Might not be your issue but something to check when you having issues.

How about the connectors and the crimps on the terminals of the thermocouple? Are they in good condition? I had similar symptoms to yours and had a shop replace the board up in the Yukon. Seemed to work for the next 1,000 miles and then failed again.

When I actually took the time to look and measure the Thermocouple, it was not making good connection on the spade connectors on the new electronics board. Making the circuit think the flame wasn't lit. So it would turn on and run for a while, than temperature fluctuation would cause it to open circuit. Shutting off the flame.

All I did to fix it right was to squeeze the crimp connections on the thermocouple wires and then squeeze the 1/4" female terminals so they grabbed the spade terminals on the circuit board tighter. Felt pretty silly that I'd paid a shop $264 for a board and labor costs I didn't need.

Try that.