about perfect for a 30 amp RV!

If a park is full, up to the latest code and it is hot out, there will almost certainly be low voltage.

So you can use a low voltage disconnect device (they cut out at 103 and 104, too low for my comfort) and swelter in the heat, or you can use an autoformer to correct the problem.

I use my autoformer a lot. In winter time it allows me full wattage from my electric heaters.

I try to be a responsible camper and limit my demand to 80% or less. i.e. 12 amps on a 15 amp, and 24 amps on a 30 amp.

On 50 amp I allow 30 amps.

I've set my Sola Basic autoformer to boost at 113 volts, up from the OEM 110 volts.

Dutch_12078 wrote:
Those "50 ampers" cannot pull more than 30 amps through the 30 amp breaker, and 15 or 20 amps using a separate cord plugged into the breaker protected GFCI utility outlet. None of the 'Y' adapters, whether commercial or homemade, will work with an NEC compliant park panel.

The larger RV’s are more likely to max out the 30A and also may want to use the 20A at the same time. Many have load shedding systems and/or inverters that can max out draw. A smaller 30A rig may not even have the means to even pull 30.

Dutch_12078 wrote:
Those "50 ampers" cannot pull more than 30 amps through the 30 amp breaker, and 15 or 20 amps using a separate cord plugged into the breaker protected GFCI utility outlet. None of the 'Y' adapters, whether commercial or homemade, will work with an NEC compliant park panel.

I remember the last (10) time(s) this was discussed. The issue is that 50 amp coaches draw more of the 30 amps than 30 amp coaches in "normal camping mode". A 30 amp coach doesn't have enough equipment in it to draw all 30 amps, but a big bus with 3 A/C units, a 1500 watt mickey wave, 4 TVs and a residential fridge surely does.

Ralph Cramden wrote:

I've found the vast majority of power issues not to be caused by poor design or inadequate facilities, but be caused by people without enough adequate gray matter in the brainpan.

One certain PA state park comes to mind where all sites are 30 amp and advertised as such. All is fine until the people with the shiny new 50 amp rigs arrive, especially so on a holiday weekends, and proceed to power up everything in said rig using every type of dogbone imaginable from the 30 amp pedestal, be they commercially produced or homemade. Then the entire campground system goes wonky. Its usually the people on the end of the circuit who get the screwing even though they have a 30 amp rig.

Then the 50 ampers are the first to run and complain to management that they can't get both 15K AC's to run at the same time with the convection oven, washer and dryer, and 4 TV's. They probably demand a discount I would imagine.


I'd like to know when in such a situation, how far does a "BIG DISCOUNT" go in offsetting the cost of replacing or repairing a few fried electrical items like a control board or two or the converter?

Those "50 ampers" cannot pull more than 30 amps through the 30 amp breaker, and 15 or 20 amps using a separate cord plugged into the breaker protected GFCI utility outlet. None of the 'Y' adapters, whether commercial or homemade, will work with an NEC compliant park panel.

Im not sure I'd care for that model some of the specifications are not to my liking but ... I'd have to know more before I'd give a strong recommendation either way.. I use a HUGHES autoformer

This unit seems to be only 7 volts boost the Hughes can do better.

What are they used for? Well some parks the park provides a nice solid 120 volts. some 110, some 110 I've seen 84

Get the picture. anything under about 105-110 is not good.

Nice. It looks like a relatively inexpensive insurance policy to me.
Thanks for posting.

LarryJM wrote:

LScamper wrote:
What good is it? What would you use it for?

IMO not much unless you insist at staying in poorly designed CGs w/o adequate facilities. An EMS like Progressive will protect your sensitive equip from low voltages and if this is more than a once in a "blue moon" issue then I would be finding a better place to stay or asking for a "BIG DISCOUNT" in you current costs since the CG is not supplying you with the proper services you paid for and expect.

Larry

Wow Larry, you must arrive and then move to another park quite a lot?

I've found the vast majority of power issues not to be caused by poor design or inadequate facilities, but be caused by people without enough adequate gray matter in the brainpan.

One certain PA state park comes to mind where all sites are 30 amp and advertised as such. All is fine until the people with the shiny new 50 amp rigs arrive, especially so on a holiday weekends, and proceed to power up everything in said rig using every type of dogbone imaginable from the 30 amp pedestal, be they commercially produced or homemade. Then the entire campground system goes wonky. Its usually the people on the end of the circuit who get the screwing even though they have a 30 amp rig.

Then the 50 ampers are the first to run and complain to management that they can't get both 15K AC's to run at the same time with the convection oven, washer and dryer, and 4 TV's. They probably demand a discount I would imagine.


I'd like to know when in such a situation, how far does a "BIG DISCOUNT" go in offsetting the cost of replacing or repairing a few fried electrical items like a control board or two or the converter?

LScamper wrote:
What good is it? What would you use it for?

IMO not much unless you insist at staying in poorly designed CGs w/o adequate facilities. An EMS like Progressive will protect your sensitive equip from low voltages and if this is more than a once in a "blue moon" issue then I would be finding a better place to stay or asking for a "BIG DISCOUNT" in you current costs since the CG is not supplying you with the proper services you paid for and expect.

Larry

Thanks MEXICOWANDERER and pianotuna, I am not sure, but I believe this may be my first post on RV.net, although I have a lot of hard earned knowledge to share, but have only read and lurked!. I am no expert, but through experience, I have learned that low voltage affected my families camping enjoyment at least twice. The first was at Branched Oak Campground, South Shore, in Nebraska probably site 93 or 94, on a very hot and humid weekend. On Saturday morning, we woke up to AC not working. I mistakenly though that our AC unit had failed, and we struggled to decide whether to leave or stay. Go to KC and buy a portable AC, or go home? We packed up, convinced that the AC unit had failed, and went home. Guess what, the AC worked fine at home. Turns out that it was low voltage, so the compressor wouldn't start. But, being somewhat new to camping, with no way to check voltage, or even realizing that this could be an issue at all, we ended the trip early. The other incident was at Indian Cave, NE., still one of our favorite campgrounds. It was, again, a hot, humid weekend. Site 17 or 18, I can't recall exactly. This time, I had a voltmeter, and measured voltage as low as 104. Our AC didn't want to run, tripping the breaker repeatedly. As I had learned in the past, my family and dogs stayed outside, and most people in that loop had problems running AC. Eventually, in the evening as the temperature dropped, things were good again for all. That trip was all I needed to realize that an autoformer may be a good purchase for a person or family that regularly camps. Ohm's law prevails in these cases. Boost the voltage, and lose some amps. Stay cool, don't run the microwave or hairdryer in conjunction with the AC! Enjoy the trip.

Think of it as a 1-a-day-vitamin for marginally low voltage