Bestconverter.com has some RV-specific electrical panels (and lots of other RV electrical things) which may be of interest, too.
The overall wiring, as time2roll alludes to, is much the same as for a residential subpanel. This means the ground and neutral busses in the RV panel need to be isolated from each other, and the ground of course bonded to the chassis of the vehicle.
A 30A RV connection is a single 120V leg, so ideally you'd want a 120V panel rather than a 120/240V panel. Most residential panels and subpanels are 120/240V panels; if you did use one, you'd have to skip every other breaker slot or do some unusual act to power both legs in the panel.