If you've got a meter, turn power OFF. Then short across each capacitor in case one or more is holding a charge. Then take them out-of-circuit by disconnecting at least one of each cap's two wires. At that point, you should be able to measure the uF/MFD of each and compare with each one's labeling. I know that'll work for Fan Run and Compressor Run. The Plastic one is a Compressor Start "Device." By Device I mean a Capacitor plus a couple other components. One of those may be a resistor that keeps you from testing without breaking its connection. If only the FAN is not running, then disconnect and measure only that capacitor. Probably about 7.5 MFD at 370 or 440 Volts AC. Bear in mind that your fan motor has a thermal cutoff inside and may need time to cool before it'll run again after getting hot. Hot as in from having power applied and not being able to start.
I have a Coleman fan motor with bad bearings but good windings, if you're into taking things apart instead of replacing. I couldn't get the bearings to keep working, so I replaced it, about $100 on Amazon. Some new motors come with a new cap, but Amazon's does not.