Kayteg1 wrote:
When compressor is running and is not cooling it is low Freon or bad compressor.
Ufortunately there is no easy way to test as AC are build without valves.
You need to add a valve for testing. Those go for about $10 on ebay.
True, but... We can take a clamp-on AC (alternating current) ammeter and check the current draw of the compressor. Compressor should be labeled (or we can use Model Number and look up) the Running Amps and the Locked Rotor Amps for the compressor. Requires having the Ammeter. Cheapest is Harbor Fright, not much over $10 on sale, maybe $20 regular price. The Locked Rotor Amps is if the compressor is stuck, cannot run, and is likely to be around 60-80 Amps on 120 volts AC. What we're interested in is Running Amps. Should be low teens (12-15) and if SO, then the compressor is probably normal and the system is probably charged. If Running Amps are HIGH, compressor isn't normal, maybe coils are dirty, maybe fan not running, fan blade shot, etc. If Running Amps are LOW, might be low or discharged on refrigerant. Compressor could be shot with failed valves. There are also rare cases where the motor part of the compressor disconnects from the actual compressor part. Again, compressor has to be replaced.
Yes, you can install test ports. Then you need A/C gauges to test, and those ports usually cause leaks. Do what you want, but I'd really like to hear what you learn on minimally invasive inspection and testing.