AC Use With Honda 2K

Make sure that your batteries are fully charge. If they are not your converter could add well over 700watts to the initial load. You can turn the breaker off for the converter.

Make sure that you have your fridge on Propane only.. auto will make the fridge switch to shore power... Another 350+watts

Jim

Not all 13,500 BTU Dometic and Coleman a/c units are created equal.

As has been said many times, it's the a/c's startup/inrush/LRA that determines whether your generator will start the compressor. One EU2000i can produce approx. 54-55 amps of inrush current with the ECO mode off. Approx. 49-51 amps of inrush current with the ECO mode on. Most OEM 13,500 BTU's (with no hard-start kit) have an LRA rating of 60-65 amps. Some EU2000i's will start these OEM units with the ECO mode off, but not reliably.

For those interested in powering an RV a/c with just one EU2000i with the ECO mode on may want to look at the very latest generation Coleman Mach PS (Power Saver) units. The 11,000 BTU Coleman Mach PS (model number 482X7-9XX) has a very low LRA of 41.5 amps (9.5 amps full load). This unit can cool most smaller RV's. An EU2000i should easily start this a/c with the ECO mode on. The 13,500 BTU Coleman Mach PS (482X8-9XX) has an very low LRA of 50.5 amps (10.0 amps full load). Although I haven't personally tried it, I'm confident an EU2000i has a very good chance of reliably starting this a/c with the ECO mode on. Please don't confuse the 482X8-9XX 13,500 BTU Coleman Mach PS with the older model 482X8-8XX 13,500 BTU Coleman Mach PS which has a much higher LRA of 58.4 amps.

For those that don't have the need or desire to run everything in their RV at the same time, I think it's much more cost effective to replace an RV a/c with one of these new "9-series" Coleman Mach PS units (approx. $700-$800) and purchase just one EU2000i. Why spend $2000 for two EU2000i's just for a few seconds of extra inrush current to start a less efficient RV a/c?

My two cents . . .

I do a lot of dry camping and have a 3k generator also, but those things are a bear to unload and I don't want to mount it permanently. The 2K fits the bill, sips gas, which is nice and ya cant run the generator all nite anyway at most places. I know I would start my dometic fan first and then kick in the compressor. Ultimately 1K Honda battery bank and solar, Im thinkin.

Over the years the reports of successful 13.5k operation with the eu2000i have been heavily skewed with Dometic Brisk Air models. They seem to draw a couple of amps below their specs, while the other brands don't.

The start-up is the killer... Some have had good results in adding a better start-up capacitor - Others have turned OFF everything in the trailer (Flipped all breakers except Air Conditioner) and got it to startup. Still others have played with starting the fan first then kick on the air conditioner compressor after the fan is running.

I tried all of the above with my 2KW HOnda EU2000i model generator and got it to run a couple of times only to kick-out when the air conditioner cycled the first time...

I just need a bigger generator for my COLEMAN model 8333D Mach 3 PLUS roof mounted air conditioner made by RVP RV Products.

Roy Ken

The Coleman probably requires more juice. A 2000 watt generator is really pushing it for any RV A/C as it is.

Bruce