AC/DC Compressor Refrigerators
I was looking at a motorhome that was equipped with an all-electric compressor refrigerator. I have never seen one before in a motorhome. I found a video on the net about the pros and cons of comp...
Forum Discussion
I have a 1.8 cubic foot Vitrifrigo c51is, now 6 years old which then was assembled in Italy, now tey re assembled in China, big surprise right?
. I boought DC only as if I have Ac available My meanwell powersupply can make more than enought to continue powering the fridge on DC as well as properly charging my battery.
The compressor is the Danfoss Secop BD35f, and these are variable RPM. more RPM means lesser duty cycle but bigger amp draw.
I run mine at the minimum 2K rpm and this starts at about 2.8 amps and declines to 2.2 amps nearer the end of the compressor cycle~ 5 minutes later. The duty cycle depends on ambient temperature the contents and how much I am opening the door of course, but keeping it closed half full at 32.5 f in 70F ambients it is about 4:30 on and 14 to 16 minutes off.
max RPM is 3500 rpm and I think this correlates to about 5.5 amps. not sure, never installed the resistor to increase rpm to that range and have no need to do so on this size fridge.
Next compressor size up for larger units is the Danfoss BD50. No experience with it.
I did have a Norcold with a sawafuji swing compressor that lasted about 5 years. Noisy vibrating annoying and not wuite as efficient..
mine averaged about 0.62AH each hour consumption in 70F ambient temperatures maintaining 32.5f interior teps as I use it. but I have added extra insulation on 5 sides, and my condenser ventilation is optimized with a better fan that has No chance of recycling air the condenser or compressor has already heated.
I've no experience running a residential fridge from an inverter, but I highly doubt I could ever get it to consume as little as my Danfoss powered 12/24 compressor fridge. I suspect a large enoough inverter and the extra batteries and charging required to power it would eat up any potential cost savings of a dorm/ residential fridge over as 12vDc fridge at least in the size fridge I am using.
. I boought DC only as if I have Ac available My meanwell powersupply can make more than enought to continue powering the fridge on DC as well as properly charging my battery.
The compressor is the Danfoss Secop BD35f, and these are variable RPM. more RPM means lesser duty cycle but bigger amp draw.
I run mine at the minimum 2K rpm and this starts at about 2.8 amps and declines to 2.2 amps nearer the end of the compressor cycle~ 5 minutes later. The duty cycle depends on ambient temperature the contents and how much I am opening the door of course, but keeping it closed half full at 32.5 f in 70F ambients it is about 4:30 on and 14 to 16 minutes off.
max RPM is 3500 rpm and I think this correlates to about 5.5 amps. not sure, never installed the resistor to increase rpm to that range and have no need to do so on this size fridge.
Next compressor size up for larger units is the Danfoss BD50. No experience with it.
I did have a Norcold with a sawafuji swing compressor that lasted about 5 years. Noisy vibrating annoying and not wuite as efficient..
mine averaged about 0.62AH each hour consumption in 70F ambient temperatures maintaining 32.5f interior teps as I use it. but I have added extra insulation on 5 sides, and my condenser ventilation is optimized with a better fan that has No chance of recycling air the condenser or compressor has already heated.
I've no experience running a residential fridge from an inverter, but I highly doubt I could ever get it to consume as little as my Danfoss powered 12/24 compressor fridge. I suspect a large enoough inverter and the extra batteries and charging required to power it would eat up any potential cost savings of a dorm/ residential fridge over as 12vDc fridge at least in the size fridge I am using.
