I have 30 amp service, which limits my ability to run the A/C and the microwave for example at the same time.Is it possible to add a 50 amp (by an electrician) circuit to the TT, dedicated to just the A/C? It would be in addition to my 30 amp service, so I would be plugged in to both the 30 and 50 amp receptacles on the pedestal. I think I would really only need one leg of the 50 amp circuit for the A/C, since that would be the only thing on it. Or even better, could I add a plug to the circuit so I could use a space heater in the winter, separate from the 30 amp circuit?This certainly isn't a necessity; I do just fine with the 30 amps but it would be nice to not have to worry about turning off the A/C if I want to use the microwave, or whatever.Thoughts?

Have you had issues with running the A/C and the MW at the same time? Every 30A RV I've owned never had any issues...

Hi,Many of us have added auxiliary shore power cords. I used male and female plugs which allows me to choose where my heavy loads are powered. I have the OEM 30, 20, and 15 amp shore power cords.Alternately it is possible to upgrade to 50 amps. If you do so, it is best practise to try to "balance" the load between the two legs.If the concern is low voltage (brown out) then consider adding an autoformer.

sch911 wrote:Have you had issues with running the A/C and the MW at the same time? Every 30A RV I've owned never had any issues...X2. Something's wrong with one or more of the OP's appliances.MW should be 10 amps or so.AC has a big surge to start but under 15 amps running.Yes a 30a circuit is only good for 23-26 amps continuous duty, the microwave counts as an intermittent load.

GordonThree wrote:sch911 wrote:Have you had issues with running the A/C and the MW at the same time? Every 30A RV I've owned never had any issues...X2. Something's wrong with one or more of the OP's appliances.MW should be 10 amps or so.AC has a big surge to start but under 15 amps running.Yes a 30a circuit is only good for 23-26 amps continuous duty, the microwave counts as an intermittent load.A/C drawing 15 amps running, 3 for the fridge, a few for all the things plugged in (tv, satellite box) then turning on the microwave for more than about 10 seconds, too much and the breaker blows. Was the same on my previous TT, so I don't think I have any appliance issues. This is the reason why I would like a whole separate circuit for the A/C, and the only way I could think of was to add a 50 amp circuit to the TT, but just for the A/C (and maybe a plug dedicated to something like a space heater in the winter). Trying to take some of the load off and avoid the constant pain of turning off the A/C anytime I want to use something else.

Which breaker blows? Maybe the breaker is going bad.I've never had trouble while on 30a shore power running ac and mw, while the fridge etc is on. Guess I've been lucky. My microwave has its own 15a breaker in the box. The AC has its own 20a breaker. Everything else is on another two breakers.

Add extra circuit | Good Sam Community

25 Replies

tinstartrvlr
Explorer
Mar 17, 2017
Piano,

Regardless of what I do, I think I might add that capacitor anyway. Looks like it would be a good thing to have no matter what.

As long as the 20 amp circuit is enough to handle the startup, that makes the most sense. I could also use that circuit for a space heater in the winter as well.
And with 20 amp, I likely won't run into the issue of no hookup at a campground like sometimes happens when there are no 50 amp hookups.
time2roll
Nomad
Mar 17, 2017
A/C branch circuit breaker is 20 amps. Check it.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Mar 17, 2017
20 amps is enough to run most if not all RV air conditioners. There are easy start kits that can be added--and they are worthwhile doing.
tinstartrvlr
Explorer
Mar 17, 2017
Westend,
After doing a little research I see what you mean. Would be quite an investment that I would have to decide whether it's worth it.

I originally thought about just a 20 amp connection, but is a 20 amp circuit enough for a dedicated A/C line? Don't they draw about 22 amps at start up-would that kick the breaker out?
westend
Explorer
Mar 17, 2017
Adding 50 amp service is not just a wire and a receptacle. If you want 50 amp service to be an addition to the original 30 amp service, you'll need a separate load center, circuit breakers, a power inlet, 6 ga wire to connect inside, and a 50 amp cord. I'd suggest to search for 50 amp cords before proceeding, the price may deter you from choosing this route.

One of the better ways to access additional power is to install a separate 20 amp circuit,using a cheaper power inlet or shore cord and connect that into the typical pedestal 120V receptacle along with your 30 amp shore cord. You can dedicate this additional circuit to whatever appliance you wish.
Almot
Explorer III
Mar 17, 2017
time2roll wrote:
If I run the air I keep water and fridge on propane. No loss of usability.

And yes you can add a circuit or convert to 50 amp if desired.

Reminds me what Mex said about gringos selling out (in his area) and moving North "where they don't have to think" :)
time2roll
Nomad
Mar 17, 2017
If I run the air I keep water and fridge on propane. No loss of usability.

And yes you can add a circuit or convert to 50 amp if desired.
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Mar 17, 2017
It is possible to add a 20 amp circuit for the A/C. very easy to do in fact

Or, depending on where it sits, you can do it for the Microwave

Though I will state that 15 amp plugs and sockets do get a bit warm running a 15,000 BTU A/C... We just inspected mine.. Clear signs of heat

Of course it's also 10 or 11 years old.
GordonThree
Explorer
Mar 17, 2017
Guess I'm not as psychic as people tell me. Couldn't read your mind earlier about an electric water heater.

/Unsubscribe
tinstartrvlr
Explorer
Mar 17, 2017
It is usually the breaker on the pedestal. Seems plenty of others have the same problem with breaker blowing with only 30 amps. Like I said, all those things running/plugged in and then, say, the water heater kicks on, I'm way over 30 amps. Besides, this is a new TT so I don't think I have breaker problems.

I am actually thinking now maybe just change the whole thing over to 50 amp. Changing the breaker panel and wire to the panel from the outside connection would be easy as it would be a straight shot, only a few feet. Then I will have all the power I need, and if I can't get a 50 amp hookup, well, I already know how to live with 30 amps!

Thanks for the input.

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Add extra circuit

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