Adhesive

It's not cheap, but 3M Fastbond is a great contact adhesive. That's what I used to adhere the outer filon skin and inner lauan when I rebuilt the cabover of my rig.

Water based, easy to apply with a roller and holds like crazy. Water resistant when dried.

Jose

pro flex

What's the construction of the island?

If it's wood, I'd be tempted to use a pin nailer and possibly even forego adhesive. The pin nails are surprisingly tenacious and very nearly invisible.

Titebond III (or other simialar wood glue) is very strong, but requires pretty decent clamping while drying to work to its best. It's also not too nasty to work with; it cleans up nicely with a damp rag and doesn't tend to turn you into a human post-it note. Practically all modern wood glues are stronger than wood when the joints are fitted and clamped properly. Titebond III is also nice because it is waterproof, or at least as waterproof as wood is, and is approved for indirect food contact (i.e. you can use it to glue up a cutting board).

Thickened epoxy is also very strong and requires less pressure when clamping, but is messier to use, can cause allergic sensitization (so should be used with gloves), and can be nearly impossible to remove if it drips and cures where you don't want it.

I have used some construction adhesive with very good effect—I think it was PL premium. Very strong when dry, and it adhered to aluminum, wood, and styrofoam (and probably most everything else).

Needless to say, a key with most any glue (other than contact cement, I guess) is to properly brace/clamp things while the glue cures.

I never liked LN just for that reason.

We us PL Premium the 3 year stuff mostly as the 8 year is too thick

Bumpyroad wrote:
3M 5200
bumpy

5200 is a great product, but probably overkill and difficult to work with. You will end up with it all over the island, under your fingernails, on your jeans, shirt, and probably behind your ear, We use it for waterproof exterior and marine applications where the best seal and adhesion is required.

I'd use a good quality contact cement on both surfaces.

We have always used liquid adhesive (glue) found in a can (not squeeze bottle)at any Home depot, Lowes, Menards, True Value, whatever you prefer, we would use a small paint roller and apply the adhesive to both surfaces, veneer and cabinet. We always make sure we get the outer edges thoroughly applied. Then after we adhered both pieces together we rolled the outer surface to remove any air entrapment.

Your question wasn't very descriptive or detailed so not 100% sure what you are trying to accomplish.

Yes, Liquid Nails and other construction adhesive is slow curing and will remain soft for days. It will work but cures slowly. Now that you have it on there, you will either have to remove it if using another adhesive or brace the panel against the island until it cures somewhat.

Titebond III is about the strongest wood glue out there. It cures in less than an hour. Contact cement on both surfaces will adhere instantly, just have to be careful about placement.

Good luck with your project.

What's the island top made of? If wood, I'd use Titebond III waterproof wood glue. For large surfaces, use a disposable 3" roller for even and complete distribution. I've used Gorilla Glue also, but it's messier to work with.

I haven't found liquid nails to be worth much except for plywood subflooring installed on floor joists and then the subflooring needs to be screwed down tight.

Bill

Some do and some don't. There are SIXTEEN different specs of Liquid Nails. Which did you use.
Art.

3M 5200
bumpy