I highly recommend installing a disconnect switch at the new RV receptacle. Will prevent arcing and pitting and damage to the shore power plug blades every time you plug in. A "motor rated" disconnect switch works well as they have heavier contacts.
Good point on load capacity of the service in the house. For a residential service load calculation, it looks like an RV outlet must comply with NEC art. 551 and table 551.73(A) meaning a demand factor of 100%. For a house with a 100A service, a 50A RV outlet sure would take a bite out of it and would not be possible to do. I wonder how many installing an RV outlet do a load calc. and comply with the NEC requirements?...
A post found on an electrical contractor/engineer/inspector forum on RV outlets:
I have hooked up probably about 10 without an issue, however last spring I hooked up one up that was older and used that the guy had just bought. [snip] I couldn't get inside but it had a 30 amp. 3-prong plug. I connected it to a 240 volt source. [snip] I got a call from him a few days later saying that the light bulbs were "exploding" when he turned them on. I immediately went back and droped him to 120 volts and I assume everything is ok because I never geard back.
Now I'm gunshy on these installs
There's an awful lot of licensed electricians that just can't get this stuff right. Make sure you hire the right guy.