Advice on deep cycle setup?
Hello, I have a Safari van that I've converted into a camper. I replaced the starting battery with a Duracell Ultra Dual Purpose (Starting/Cycling) Battery that cost $105 (got it at batteries ...
Forum Discussion
Oops, I obviously did not do a good explanation. Shame on you Mex.
The whole reason I recommended a larger size meaning fatter alternator was to do two things -
Improve durability
Greatly improve low engine speed charging.
The alternator you are favoring will do neither of those two things better than what you have now.
I started researching the alternator market place after reading the OPs last response.
The fraudulent claims I read are disgusting. Especially the one that states "Will put out more amperage at idle than the original does at maximum RPM"
A CS-130?
Yes, and by giving your 12-year old these magic vitamins he will be running the 100 meter dash in nine seconds flat.
The CS-130 has a 13.25 gauge delta would stator. The entire rectifier bridge is housed in a C shaped carriage that must be thermally bonded to the case by use of zinc oxide. You've read about the exposed to outside, A6000 rear bearing RIDING ON A SHAFT THAT BECOMES MAGNETIZED.
I fooled around with the CS-130 for a year. The rotor bobbin is wound tight with ampere turns that have very high amperage. The 1116411-435-437 regulator is taxed to the maximum so altering the rotor is out.
Tightening the rotor stator laminations clearance is out as Delco already did that.
By hand winding the stator 13.00 gauge wire can increase output by 11 amperes to 116 cold. Output at 1600 rotor RPM decreased by 8 amps. Even then one in six stator winding ended up failed due to overstuffing the slots.
I ended up getting the case hard anodized black to try and reduce failures, the rest of the modifications were not worth the paper the design was written on.
By encouraging the substitution of the CS-144 here is what I was pushing...
It would be a pure waste of money to fall for a shylark hyped alternator. This outfit knows any recourse would have to be small claims court on their turf, meaning in their jurisdiction or Superior Court. Ten thousand dollars attorney fees going in. The "pockets" of such an outfit are about as deep as those found on your everyday straitjacket. They would fold faster than a house of cards in a whole gale. I have served as "Expert Witness" in fewer than six County of Loa Angeles superior court lawsuits. All involved fraud.
If the price difference between the 3-card-monte gizmo and the CS-144 is too much to bear I vigorously encourage not to buy anything at all.
Sorry about the earlier incomplete information.
The whole reason I recommended a larger size meaning fatter alternator was to do two things -
Improve durability
Greatly improve low engine speed charging.
The alternator you are favoring will do neither of those two things better than what you have now.
I started researching the alternator market place after reading the OPs last response.
The fraudulent claims I read are disgusting. Especially the one that states "Will put out more amperage at idle than the original does at maximum RPM"
A CS-130?
Yes, and by giving your 12-year old these magic vitamins he will be running the 100 meter dash in nine seconds flat.
The CS-130 has a 13.25 gauge delta would stator. The entire rectifier bridge is housed in a C shaped carriage that must be thermally bonded to the case by use of zinc oxide. You've read about the exposed to outside, A6000 rear bearing RIDING ON A SHAFT THAT BECOMES MAGNETIZED.
I fooled around with the CS-130 for a year. The rotor bobbin is wound tight with ampere turns that have very high amperage. The 1116411-435-437 regulator is taxed to the maximum so altering the rotor is out.
Tightening the rotor stator laminations clearance is out as Delco already did that.
By hand winding the stator 13.00 gauge wire can increase output by 11 amperes to 116 cold. Output at 1600 rotor RPM decreased by 8 amps. Even then one in six stator winding ended up failed due to overstuffing the slots.
I ended up getting the case hard anodized black to try and reduce failures, the rest of the modifications were not worth the paper the design was written on.
By encouraging the substitution of the CS-144 here is what I was pushing...
- Output would increase by 35 amperes
- But even at 105 amps output the rectifiers would operate at 65 degrees cooler temperature
- Idle RPM would be more than doubled that of the original CS-130
- From idle to full output the CS-144 would vastly outperform the CS-130
- The CS-144 Will outlive the CS-130 anywhere from five to twenty times as long
- That exposed rear bearing on the CS-130 is a red herring.
It would be a pure waste of money to fall for a shylark hyped alternator. This outfit knows any recourse would have to be small claims court on their turf, meaning in their jurisdiction or Superior Court. Ten thousand dollars attorney fees going in. The "pockets" of such an outfit are about as deep as those found on your everyday straitjacket. They would fold faster than a house of cards in a whole gale. I have served as "Expert Witness" in fewer than six County of Loa Angeles superior court lawsuits. All involved fraud.
If the price difference between the 3-card-monte gizmo and the CS-144 is too much to bear I vigorously encourage not to buy anything at all.
Sorry about the earlier incomplete information.
