Advice on deep cycle setup?
Hello, I have a Safari van that I've converted into a camper. I replaced the starting battery with a Duracell Ultra Dual Purpose (Starting/Cycling) Battery that cost $105 (got it at batteries ...
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Separate the alternator halves. Stator stays with rear half. 1/4 nutdriver fits fine to take off the case bolts Refer to bottom image regarding the rectifier to regulator stamped steel bridge.
Image below disregard the photo notations.
Terrible Image below
The nutdriver rests on the top screw of the steel bridge. Remove top and bottom screws and remove the bridge. Cut the place where it solders to the regulator. Replace the screws and insulators.
See the tang on the brush holder? It looks like a push on terminal. This is where voltage regulator input power gets soldered to.
Because the metal bridge you removed acts as power input, now it's gone. You can solder direct to the push on terminal of the brush holder. The regulator stays in place as stabilization for the brush (regulator input). The reg is neutered utterly. Of course no harness is needed to connect to the neutered voltage regulator.
You can see the other brush is already grounded just like it needs to be with say, a Ford regulator.
The circuitry in the regulator is neutered. By filling the regulator socket with silicone sealant your job is finished. Use 2 or 3 overlays of heat shrink tubing to protect the new wire to the brush holder. Why not gob some silicone where this wire exits the case?
The weakest point is where the new wire is soldered to the brush point. I like GOOP to reinforce stuff. Goop and a Q-tip
Image below disregard the photo notations.
Terrible Image below
The nutdriver rests on the top screw of the steel bridge. Remove top and bottom screws and remove the bridge. Cut the place where it solders to the regulator. Replace the screws and insulators.
See the tang on the brush holder? It looks like a push on terminal. This is where voltage regulator input power gets soldered to.
Because the metal bridge you removed acts as power input, now it's gone. You can solder direct to the push on terminal of the brush holder. The regulator stays in place as stabilization for the brush (regulator input). The reg is neutered utterly. Of course no harness is needed to connect to the neutered voltage regulator.
You can see the other brush is already grounded just like it needs to be with say, a Ford regulator.
The circuitry in the regulator is neutered. By filling the regulator socket with silicone sealant your job is finished. Use 2 or 3 overlays of heat shrink tubing to protect the new wire to the brush holder. Why not gob some silicone where this wire exits the case?
The weakest point is where the new wire is soldered to the brush point. I like GOOP to reinforce stuff. Goop and a Q-tip
