Air Conditioner

If it's a 100 degrees outside his coils aren't going to freeze up.

j-d wrote:
Maybe Chris Bryant has kept track of his "Tune Up your Rooftop A/C" blog post. I had it, lost it, can't find it again.

They've nuked all of my old posts, so I republished it here.

I'll be resurrecting as many of my old posts that are still relevant as I can come up with.

Check the freeze sensor is actually mounted on the evaporator. Need to remove interior trim to check.

While apart check the plenum divider is properly separating the warm/in vs the cool/out.

Second idea sounds like a possibility plus the freezing up sounds like what mine did as well...

We were running the Main AC on low plus it was over 100 outside, maybe it did freeze up. Even though the fan was on low it seemed to be blowing even less air than what low would normally be. I turned off the unit and turned it back on a few minutes later and it started working a gain. I ran it on high. Had both AC's on nearly 12 hours per day and at night the main unit set at 70 would cycle on and off. for 7 days... Issue seems to be infrequent but usually happens when you need it most..

op?

Maybe Chris Bryant has kept track of his "Tune Up your Rooftop A/C" blog post. I had it, lost it, can't find it again.

Our 15K stopped cooling on a recent trip running on "Low Cool" (the lower fan speed). Ran on High Fan awhile and it picked up cooling again. My thought is it froze up on Low, Compressor overheated and tripped internal protector. By the time the ice melted, Compressor was cool enough to start again. Used High Cool the rest of the trip, no issues. This is a Non-Ducted unit, so it doesn't have an actual "freeze sensor." The ducted ones have it and may react differently.

Just one.. In the morning while it is still cool go topside (up on the roof) with #2 Phillips head screwdriver

Remove the cover

Remove the cover over the condenser (hot) coils

Inspect..they may need cleaning..

And second idea:
Proper operation means that you take 4 temp measurements and two humidity measurements. Then you go to a book published by the unit's manufacturer and look up some of those measurements.. Finaly you get to a chart where you plot the last 2 readings.

If the dot is below the line.. That is good.

EVEN if it's blowing out at 80 degrees.. If the dot is below the line that is working properly

Outside temp is PART of what determines which line to look at or which chart to plot on. IF it gets high enough and you are in direct sunlight... The line gets higher and higher.

http://smile.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435957385&sr=8-1&keywords=kill+a+watt $18

And you can measure the electricity being used by whatever is plugged into this device (well below it's amp rating) but probably not the air conditioner, because it will not plug into this device.



Fred.

Might be icing up.
Start simple by cleaning the foam/sponge filter. It will be inside your rig behind the A/C cover on the ceiling.

This silly video will show you how.......RV A/C inside filter cleaning...HERE

It sounds like it might be freezing if the airflow stops.

However if you have very low voltage, say 103 volts, you can have the compressor overheat with high amperage, and trip off for a little while.

At below 105 volts, I will shut off my air conditioner.

In reality, when I get below about 110 volts, I will plug in my voltage booster, and bring the voltage up by 12 volts. Anything between 105 and 132 volts is acceptable for the 110 volt compressor motor.

The local trend is to raise the voltage to lower the amperage requirements. This allows the antiquated power system carry more wattage, while still having less amperage.

I have a voltage meter that displays the voltage in 1" tall digits in my kitchen of the RV. SO I can quickly glance at it, and see if I should be concerned today or not. If it gets close to 110 volts, I will check it more frequently, and plug in my booster.

You can buy a 'Kill-A-Watt' meter that is designed to stay plugged in all the time, and can display voltage. It is about $35 on e-bay. Check amazon.com too.

Good luck!

Fred.