Allison HD 4060 Trans Code?

I got ahold of an authorized Allison service center and explained my code and issue. It appears that on older motor homes have an issue more times than not relating to grounds and intermitten power that they just reroute new power and ground from the battery. I know this was related in a previous post but I'm wondering how one might is the correct wires in the ECU harness? The ground is pretty easy but direct power....?

Another up date....after discussing the issue with the Allison service in Fresno and going over a few other trial and error procedures, I have a new thought about what's going on. I drove the MH home from up north(about 500 miles) with the issue presenting itself a coupe of times...I'm leaning toward the problem being a voltage issue not a voltage interruption...it other words, not getting enough voltage. Since it's home now, I'll be checking battery connections, grounds etc hoping I find the cure. Also getting a higher amp alternator to cover my inverter loads while traveling( residential fridge, a separate 120 volt freezer, wine cooler etc etc.) I'll keep this thread updated with any progress.

If anyone is still following this....after about a month of trouble shooting, making phone calls and simply getting very frustrated, I called a few places over again this morning....I'll make a long story short, I received info from the Allison help line this time around that I had not got before.

That info was simply to remove the aux Chassis Ground fed into the ECU(Wire # 144, Pin# B-10) and then isolate the entire ECU from the chassis...I did this by mounting it on Plywood. If you are not aware, the power and the grounds for the ECU must be isolated from other power and chassis grounds(in other words, directly from the battery).

After plugging it all in and testing in my drive-way...its seems(tentatively) to not faulting. I'll stop short of saying its fixed until I get on the road and Test Drive it. Hope this helps others when seeing the dreaded 35-00 Allison Code!

Great info, keep it coming.

Just for drill there is only one meaning a solitary contact cleaner that does -anything at all- the remainder I classify "contact wash" soap and water.



When the US Navy and Boeing, classify something as "essential inventory" it isn't for laughs. So does Bose the speaker Company and Intel.

Fifteen minutes ago I got off the phone with Eduardo. He just spent the eqvt of Fifteen US dollars for a bottle of "MK Tuner Cleaner' to try and clean a headlight relay socket on a GMC.

I'd bet ten to one when I take the Caig DeOxit D100 tomorrow and take the oxide out of the relay socket pins, it'll fix the problem. Period. One shot. Forever.

D100 is the strongest de-oxidider Caig sells under the DeOxit name.

Know-it-alls who laugh and smirk about this stuff have little electronic experience and their jaw drops to the floor when a signal strength meter jumps from "3" to "5"

Another Eduardo back home just about gave up on an AMD mother board, an expensive one. He rubbed the edge connectors with art gum, laid on the useless contact cleaner and the problem remained intermittent. I used the D100, he assembled the PC and it was goodbye for the two years he had track of it.

D100 is the ONLY thing that cured a reluctant solder top interface with an aluminum holder. And there is are the hundreds of other little things that were fixed instantly.

Or..........

You can do things the hard way

It wasn't fixed after all....so after another day of my trouble shooting and a day of phone calls, I found a location a couple hours drive from me who knew how to Bench Test my ECU....long story short, on his test equip, he was getting the same results as I was getting when hook up in the motor home. Morale of the story...a defective/fried ECU!!! Will be sending it off for repair and will report back upon completion.

One last update for any or all interested.....got rebuilt ECU back( had touch Pad rebuilt too) and we are away on our first journey since I started the repairs and all is well.