Alternator overcharging batteries
I have 4 AGM batteries in my rig with a total capacity of 440AH (actually 880AH @ 6V, but of course they are wired to get 12V). The data sheet for my Haze batteries species a bulk -> absorption cut...
Forum Discussion
Wuuwee first time I've noticed this thread :)
Yep, MoPar does indeed have ECU Voltage Irregulators.
To cure the long long week's long vacation hotfoot, remember a silicon rectifier drops voltage automatically by roughly point seven .7 volt. A standard 70 amp three bolt finned isolator tolerates 140 total amps when BOTH OUTPUT STUDS are paralleled. This goody would be installed near the batteries. The regular incoming voltage cable would go to the center terminal and BOTH outboard studs would be bridged and pass into the AGM positive stud.
Dropping voltage by .4 volt is a little trickier. It requires passing the alternator - AGM charge lead line through an adequately sized SCHOTTKY rectifier. Ambulances use isolators with Schottky rectifiers but if you should price one you may end up inside the ambulance.
This gets even funner....
14.2 volts is far too high if battery temperature is say 90F. A standard silicon rectifier isolator would do the trick just fine. If you want to get boondocker fancy wire in a switch with appropriate gauge cabling that bypasses the isolator with the flick of the wrist.
GYRO GEARLOOSE TYPES
Re-read this post AGAIN. CAREFULLY before you unleash with ISOLATOR DIATRIBE. This is NOT a standard silicon rectifier isolator hookup. Questions I will answer politely. Criticism gives me license to bite with needle fangs filled with sarcasm venom.
I am doing this precise thing with a psychotic WFCO. Only with a 500 ampere rated Schottky rectifier. But the Schottky rectifiers sold on eBay need to be insulated and heat sinked and fitted with bolt terminals and case and forget it - it's not a project suitable for novices.
An isolator with switch makes perfect sense for full day after full day on the road. If the days include high heat I would rate the modification as "essential".
FURTHER NOTE. THINK BEFORE CRITICIZING
Converter, solar, squirrels in a cage charging gets connected BETWEEN the isolator and battery.
Gripe, Snivel & Whine...
14.3 volts is too high of voltage for an antimony flooded battery. 14.3 volts combined with hot summer temps and marathon driving BOILS flooded batteries. Yeah! Gurgle Gurgle. This is why I shook my head at all the neurotic grade micro-management of converters, solar yadda and this subject was not touched upon.
Not everyone fits into the marathon hot weather driving scenario. But those who do can be battery killers ESPECIALLY WITH RV FLOODED BATTERIES.
And for the short-term memory types this is regarding vehicle engine alternator charging ONLY.
Yep, MoPar does indeed have ECU Voltage Irregulators.
To cure the long long week's long vacation hotfoot, remember a silicon rectifier drops voltage automatically by roughly point seven .7 volt. A standard 70 amp three bolt finned isolator tolerates 140 total amps when BOTH OUTPUT STUDS are paralleled. This goody would be installed near the batteries. The regular incoming voltage cable would go to the center terminal and BOTH outboard studs would be bridged and pass into the AGM positive stud.
Dropping voltage by .4 volt is a little trickier. It requires passing the alternator - AGM charge lead line through an adequately sized SCHOTTKY rectifier. Ambulances use isolators with Schottky rectifiers but if you should price one you may end up inside the ambulance.
This gets even funner....
14.2 volts is far too high if battery temperature is say 90F. A standard silicon rectifier isolator would do the trick just fine. If you want to get boondocker fancy wire in a switch with appropriate gauge cabling that bypasses the isolator with the flick of the wrist.
GYRO GEARLOOSE TYPES
Re-read this post AGAIN. CAREFULLY before you unleash with ISOLATOR DIATRIBE. This is NOT a standard silicon rectifier isolator hookup. Questions I will answer politely. Criticism gives me license to bite with needle fangs filled with sarcasm venom.
I am doing this precise thing with a psychotic WFCO. Only with a 500 ampere rated Schottky rectifier. But the Schottky rectifiers sold on eBay need to be insulated and heat sinked and fitted with bolt terminals and case and forget it - it's not a project suitable for novices.
An isolator with switch makes perfect sense for full day after full day on the road. If the days include high heat I would rate the modification as "essential".
FURTHER NOTE. THINK BEFORE CRITICIZING
Converter, solar, squirrels in a cage charging gets connected BETWEEN the isolator and battery.
Gripe, Snivel & Whine...
14.3 volts is too high of voltage for an antimony flooded battery. 14.3 volts combined with hot summer temps and marathon driving BOILS flooded batteries. Yeah! Gurgle Gurgle. This is why I shook my head at all the neurotic grade micro-management of converters, solar yadda and this subject was not touched upon.
Not everyone fits into the marathon hot weather driving scenario. But those who do can be battery killers ESPECIALLY WITH RV FLOODED BATTERIES.
And for the short-term memory types this is regarding vehicle engine alternator charging ONLY.
