Gjac wrote:
Thanks for posting. I have a similar issue with my setup. When my 2 6 V GC batteries are at 50% SOC I am only seeing 8.7 amps at the batteries from my 180 amp alternator. Wiring is original from the OEM alternator, which I think was 85 or 110 amps. I have a cheap Chinese volt/ammeter that I don't know how accurate it is but I expected to see more amps going into the batteries also.
That seems low amps even so. Mine has original #10 wire for miles of pos path and the frame for the neg path. Still got around 20 amps on a low battery. Perhaps there is a loose connection or two adding to your path resistance.
You can do a couple of easy things where you can see it all by the engine. Where it goes alternator/starter relay/battery post/isolator/CB/wire back to house, you can :
A. Move the wire from battery post to isolator and make it fatter and now run from starter relay to isolator.
B. Cut the wire from CB to where it goes out of sight through the firewall if it is long enough to make this worthwhile and replace it with fatter wire.
In fact on mine I made that fatter wire go from the isolator to near the firewall and used the CB as a connector between the fatter wire and the original wire (to which I added a ring terminal where I had cut the wire)
Back at the house battery area, find the pos wire coming from up front and fatten the part that you can get at from there to the battery (should be another CB at that end of the wire so there is a "fuse" at each end protecting the wire where it is out of sight between the front and the house batts)
That is about all you can do with the pos path without getting complicated, routing a fatter wire all the way.
C. Check the neg path frame connections for corrosion if you can find them. That might even be the real problem with the low amps on yours.
If you have long jumper cables, you can by- pass the pos and neg paths individually to see if amps jump higher with one or the other path by-passed. If so, then you know where to look.
