theoldwizard1 wrote:
Gdetrailer wrote:
You DO realize that a lot of the problem is the STARTING BATTERY, right?
The charging system is sensing a slightly higher voltage from the starting battery and IS going to taper down the voltage and amps. That IS how automobile charging systems are setup and pretty much nothing you can really do to force it to push more current..
Doesn't matter if you had a 1970s 30A alternator or a 2017 250A alternator, your only going to get a slight trickle to the house batteries.
This is exactly what I have been trying to convey !
Gdetrailer wrote:
You have two possible ways to do this, ...
TWO MORE !
- The suggested DC-DC boost converter and solar charge controller
- Figure out how the voltage regulator will sense house battery voltage. This will like cook your starting battery.
Pretty hard now days to fool or modify the regulators, most manufacturers have gone to using the Body Control Module (BCM) or the Engine Control Module (ECM) to manage the regulator duties.. Making changes to the charging strategy is not going to happen with this setup.
The ones that have not moved to BCM or ECU are using built in regulators on the alternator, those tend to be well potted (sealed) to prevent moisture damage so modifying that is pretty well not going to happen either.
These alternators just were never designed for this so one would have to go to some pretty extreme lengths in modifications to make this work..
The possible saving grace on a BCM or ECU type may perhaps they are using an external voltage sense wire.. If that is the case, then you could possibly fool the regulator into providing a higher voltage by sneaking one or two diodes in series with that lead.. That would fake out the regulator to provide more field current to the alternator..
Make a mistake here and you overvoltage everything on your system like ECM, BCM and a host of extremely expensive vehicle electronics..
Risky, absolute.
Major rework, absolute.
Not worth the hassle, absolute..
