Alternator

Should be a label on it but you may need a mirror and a flashlight to read it.
Or
If you bought new and kept the window sticker it should be on there.
Visit a Ford dealer that is friendly with the vin and explain that you don't want to buy one somewhere else but are trying to rig something on your truck.
Dealers are getting prickly about helping us buy stuff somewheres else. Bribes might work if nothing else does.
Or Fords website may be of help, again your VIN will be needed.

Google lariat, yr, model, Your trim package, specs
My experience with FORD ,
Is your trim package, electric seats, a/c. Defrosters, automatic doors, Windows, etc.. Decide the alternator load and size needed
I'm guessing BUT i say 130 amps
Wrong guess, quick look shows, it's between 220 & 320

This brochure says 157A base and 200A optional.

https://www.ford.com/services/assets/Brochure?make=Ford&model=SuperDuty&year=2015

Frank,

I just have to ask why you care?

If you are hoping to use it to recover the battery in a TT or other, this is usually a lost cause because of the required cable length and weight.

If you hope to use it to supply power when stationary, that is an all around bad idea for so many reasons.

Matt

Matt_Colie wrote:
Frank,

I just have to ask why you care?

If you are hoping to use it to recover the battery in a TT or other, this is usually a lost cause because of the required cable length and weight.

If you hope to use it to supply power when stationary, that is an all around bad idea for so many reasons.

Matt

Not to mention most of the power it produces goes to running the truck.

Slownsy wrote:
2015 6.7 Lariet do anybody know how many Amps the heavy duty alternator is, and how many Amps it can supply continues.
Frank

Plenty. Or do you have an extra ordinary demand for power?

To a certain extent, your chassis alternator output (voltage and current) is dependent on the current state of charge of your chassis battery(s) and the loads placed on the alternator by the VEHICLES electrical system. If your chassis battery is fully charged, expect the alternator output to be a fraction of it's maximum rated capacity until the existing loads drop the charge in the chassis battery. Ford engineers designed their charging system that way to improve fuel mileage and to prevent people from doing what they want to do . . . . . charge the batteries in their camper with the chassis alternator.

Chum lee

I have the 200 and 157 amp alternators in my DRW. If you have the optional supplemental heat, by default your truck will come with the heavy duty 200 amp. Supplemental heat draws 1000-1200 watts.
If it is a cold morning, the amperage draw is huge. Supplemental heat is on by default, no switch to turn it on or off unless you turn your heater completely off.
So on start up I have supplemental heat, all the seat heaters on, all the lights on including fog lights. The DRW has about 10 more lights than the SRW.Also, on cold mornings my air compressor usually turns on for a few minutes to fill the tank.There is also other stuff drawing amps, by my figures I am drawing over 200 amps.

Does supplemental heat provide heat to the cabin or to the engine air intake for cold starting?

Yes I intended to run a heavy cable to rear for charging FW, I know that the is a orange wire with 40A fuse from factory but as plugs and som of harness have been changed when right hand conversion was don. 6gage wire is often used for this here in Australia but wondering about fuse for use near alternator.
Frank