Another AGM conditioning question
This is my chassis battery, an agm I got used and have little experience with. Trickle charger failed in storage, it is dead as a doornail. Not covenient to babysit it for long hours on meanwell or...
Forum Discussion
As long as every single cell avoids overheating apply 14.4 volts even if it takes four days at 24 hours per day charge time. Naio's predicament is she feels sensitive about over-amping the Megawatt which is a valid concern. It is a tough power supply but reasonable is reasonable. It is designed to augment a properly sized converter, not replace it.
AGM batteries have a formidable charge acceptance. With the 2-story Lifeline 31 I have whacked it with 137 amperes to achieve 14.4 absorbsion 14.4 volts limit.
My error with Naio is I somehow believed she was dealing with wheelchair batteries. So right off the bat I was standing on non-existent ice.
By virtue of physics and chemistry only a cell short or multiples thereof can cause an AGM battery to overheat if voltage limited charging is employed. So checking the battery by hand (an infra red scanner is easier and best) will reveal excess heat either in a single cell or series cells.
WEAR EYE PROTECTION! Please! I mean it!
Once a rig's converter set at 14.4 volts has amperage slump to LESS than the power supply's max amperage limit, then the power supply can constant voltage charge the battery for hours and even days if required.
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Let's use some common sense in diagnostics...
A 135 amp hour AGM as an example.
Connect a charger to it -- converter or power supply it does not matter
Over whatever amount of time it takes, by keeping track, and voltage limiting to 14.4 it seems as though the 135 amp hour battery has taken 290 amp hours worth have charging and has not had its amperage decline to one half percent of total amp hour capacity (in this case less than 6.75 amps)...
The battery is bad
If amperage ALMOST declined to 6.75 amps than try the battery under load and if it works to your satisfaction then it works. If it falls flat on it's face it fails meaning a bad battery.
Think of a five gallon bucket. If you jam 6 gallons into it, is it a five gallon bucket? No. It has a leak. A battery operates on chemistry so the leak can be twiddled with -- to a point. By equalization or conditioning charging.
If it fails to respond to equalization or conditioning twiddling then you have a bad battery.
If you want to be snotty about the protocol
All batteries have a charge efficiency factor measured in percentage of overcharge needed to bring a discharged battery to full charge from being discharged.
A neglected battery has a moderate fault in amp hours needed to return to full charge
A bad battery can never be returned to full charge. Endless charging, never reaching one-half percent of amp hours at 14.4 volts, or reaching the magic figure but then rendering a notable lack of ampere hours of charge storage.
The lack of charge storage can be treated with conditioning. The never reaching the one-half-percent even with ridiculous amounts of excess amperage at 14.4 volts is like allowing an at bat hitter slack. But "Strike twenty-seven you're out" should be ample proof the battery is scrap.
Hope this helps...
AGM batteries have a formidable charge acceptance. With the 2-story Lifeline 31 I have whacked it with 137 amperes to achieve 14.4 absorbsion 14.4 volts limit.
My error with Naio is I somehow believed she was dealing with wheelchair batteries. So right off the bat I was standing on non-existent ice.
By virtue of physics and chemistry only a cell short or multiples thereof can cause an AGM battery to overheat if voltage limited charging is employed. So checking the battery by hand (an infra red scanner is easier and best) will reveal excess heat either in a single cell or series cells.
WEAR EYE PROTECTION! Please! I mean it!
Once a rig's converter set at 14.4 volts has amperage slump to LESS than the power supply's max amperage limit, then the power supply can constant voltage charge the battery for hours and even days if required.
=============================================================================================================================================================
Let's use some common sense in diagnostics...
A 135 amp hour AGM as an example.
Connect a charger to it -- converter or power supply it does not matter
Over whatever amount of time it takes, by keeping track, and voltage limiting to 14.4 it seems as though the 135 amp hour battery has taken 290 amp hours worth have charging and has not had its amperage decline to one half percent of total amp hour capacity (in this case less than 6.75 amps)...
The battery is bad
If amperage ALMOST declined to 6.75 amps than try the battery under load and if it works to your satisfaction then it works. If it falls flat on it's face it fails meaning a bad battery.
Think of a five gallon bucket. If you jam 6 gallons into it, is it a five gallon bucket? No. It has a leak. A battery operates on chemistry so the leak can be twiddled with -- to a point. By equalization or conditioning charging.
If it fails to respond to equalization or conditioning twiddling then you have a bad battery.
If you want to be snotty about the protocol
All batteries have a charge efficiency factor measured in percentage of overcharge needed to bring a discharged battery to full charge from being discharged.
A neglected battery has a moderate fault in amp hours needed to return to full charge
A bad battery can never be returned to full charge. Endless charging, never reaching one-half percent of amp hours at 14.4 volts, or reaching the magic figure but then rendering a notable lack of ampere hours of charge storage.
The lack of charge storage can be treated with conditioning. The never reaching the one-half-percent even with ridiculous amounts of excess amperage at 14.4 volts is like allowing an at bat hitter slack. But "Strike twenty-seven you're out" should be ample proof the battery is scrap.
Hope this helps...
