There is a small leak from our black tank where the sewer outlet is "supposed" to be joined to the tank. It looks like whatever process was supposed to join the tank to the sewer pipe just didn't take on a portion of the circumference. I want to avoid replacing the tank or taking the trailer to have it "plastic welded". I would like to try:3M™ Scotch-Weld™ High Performance Industrial Plastic Adhesive 4693H. I would clean up the area I think is leaking with sandpaper and just apply the adhesive. I would appreciate your thoughts.The picture is taken from below:The tank is in a 2008 Keystone Cougar 276RLS 5th Wheel trailer. The tank has a label on it that reads:Ameri-Kart CorpR.V.Model 515File No. LM33087Std. No. B45.6I assume the tank is polyethylene and I am not sure what the material is that it is partially bound to. Perhaps ABS?Thanks,danglo

sounds like a plan. try just a dap before you glue the hole thing, ake sure your glue doesn,t eat the plastic. and double check its not the bolted area leaking.

midnightsadie wrote:sounds like a plan. try just a dap before you glue the hole thing, ake sure your glue doesn,t eat the plastic. and double check its not the bolted area leaking.Thanks. I got a pretty good look at the area (with a light and mirror). The only apparent leak is at the radius formed where the tank joins the horizontal sewer connection, not the valve.danglo

We had this same problem fixed by Camping World. They actually put two entire tubes of silicone caulking around the place where the pipe enters the tank. Then after three days tested by filling the tank until it filled the toilet pipe. No leak. We have decided one way to stop the leak is not to let the tank get 100% full. Seems to have held so far.

BOTTS 12 sounds like a CW repair more is better ,it only takes a little silicone in the right spot to stop a leak . I,d rather take the joint a part and re glue ,but you gotta see it to judge it.

You may want to see if TAP Plastic's PolyWeld will help you out. I got great results in a black tank repair from it although it is a little more complicated to use. While I was down in the area, I also used Rustoelums Black Stop Leak spray to clean up the job visually -- and reinforce the job.

Another black tank leak repair question | Good Sam Community

18 Replies

Peg_Leg
Explorer
Aug 10, 2013
I had trouble getting things to stick to the ABS. I ended up sanding the area and using JB Weld and Plumbers Putty but I can't remember which one I put on first. Plumbers Putty is a two part epoxy that comes in a stick. You pinch off what you need and work it until the colors blend together. It can be applied under water.

I would try anything you decide to use on a area of a fitting to see how it sticks.
powderman426
Explorer
Aug 10, 2013
midnightsadie wrote:
BOTTS 12 sounds like a CW repair more is better ,it only takes a little silicone in the right spot to stop a leak . I,d rather take the joint a part and re glue ,but you gotta see it to judge it.

You know the saying. "If some is good and more is better, too much should be just about right."
Charlie_D_
Explorer
Aug 10, 2013
Black tank is probably ABS. The polyethylene tanks are usually used for gray and fresh water. Had a 4" long crack on my previous rig. Sanded and applied several layer of JB Weld/ Held for the remaining 6 years I had it. Not familiar with the product you mentioned although it says it is good for polyethylene and there are not many poly adhesive available. I am partial to 2 part adhesives..
secundinus
Explorer
Aug 10, 2013
You may want to see if TAP Plastic's PolyWeld will help you out. I got great results in a black tank repair from it although it is a little more complicated to use. While I was down in the area, I also used Rustoelums Black Stop Leak spray to clean up the job visually -- and reinforce the job.
midnightsadie
Explorer II
Aug 10, 2013
BOTTS 12 sounds like a CW repair more is better ,it only takes a little silicone in the right spot to stop a leak . I,d rather take the joint a part and re glue ,but you gotta see it to judge it.
botts12
Explorer
Aug 10, 2013
We had this same problem fixed by Camping World. They actually put two entire tubes of silicone caulking around the place where the pipe enters the tank. Then after three days tested by filling the tank until it filled the toilet pipe. No leak. We have decided one way to stop the leak is not to let the tank get 100% full. Seems to have held so far.
danglo
Explorer
Aug 10, 2013
midnightsadie wrote:
sounds like a plan. try just a dap before you glue the hole thing, ake sure your glue doesn,t eat the plastic. and double check its not the bolted area leaking.

Thanks. I got a pretty good look at the area (with a light and mirror). The only apparent leak is at the radius formed where the tank joins the horizontal sewer connection, not the valve.

danglo
midnightsadie
Explorer II
Aug 10, 2013
sounds like a plan. try just a dap before you glue the hole thing, ake sure your glue doesn,t eat the plastic. and double check its not the bolted area leaking.

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Another black tank leak repair question

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