(Another) Rough electrical question
My from-scratch van build is progressing slowly, as I get an afternoon here and there. Right now I am doing house wiring, and something is worrying me. So I thought I'd ask you all :B I went to an ...
Forum Discussion
FWIW, the NEC has a section dedicated specifically to RVs (for manufacturers). Not to worry though, RV manufacturers don't always comply with it anyway... :M Inspections by an AHJ is never required so you can basically do whatever you want (but is on you if there's ever a fire or electrocution).
The concern with non-metallic sheathed wiring I would have is preventing abrasion anywhere in the steel shell of the van that could wear through the jacket and insulation. In a steel stud framed building, if non-metallic wiring is used, bushings must be installed but BX type cable is normally used. Vibration isn't going to be an issue and solid wire is fine. I would use #14 romex/loomex and ensure it is physically protected throughout. Only time you'd need stranded is for a slide.
The Mike Holt has a good discussion on using stranded wire on side-wired receptacles (as used in buildings)
here. Although receptacles may be UL/CSA listed for solid or stranded wire, am not sure if that includes extension cord wire which is fine-stranded. I think you'll find it difficult to execute a good connection with extension cord wire. As the link above mentions, there are some receptacles that have a back-stab connection that tightens up by screwing down the screw on the side. If you do go ahead with the extension cord wire, perhaps tinning the ends might help?
Carlon makes a series of PVC boxes that would be a good choice but don't know if available in Canada. The photo shows a single-gang shallow type and I've used a few of these in our TT and bought them at an Ace Hardware across the border. You can see the plastic tab that holds romex/loomex in place and prevents it from pulling out. Don't know if it could damage the jacket/insulation on extension cord cable but doubt they are UL/CSA listed for extension cords. Not the correct thing to do, but could possibly bend the tab a bit so it's not as tight and if your wire/cable is installed in such a way that it can't move around, the tab wouldn't as much as a concern.
I have no issue with the RV "SCD" type receptacles themselves. The problem is that RV manufacturers don't always connect the wiring to them properly. They're a good choice in the thin walls RVs have and need no box. There's zillions of them out there in mobiles homes and you don't hear about them burning down from incorrectly wiring them. You MUST use solid wire only with these. Having said this, if you wanted to use an SCD recept. for a continuous type load (like a heater), I'd only use one on the circuit.
The concern with non-metallic sheathed wiring I would have is preventing abrasion anywhere in the steel shell of the van that could wear through the jacket and insulation. In a steel stud framed building, if non-metallic wiring is used, bushings must be installed but BX type cable is normally used. Vibration isn't going to be an issue and solid wire is fine. I would use #14 romex/loomex and ensure it is physically protected throughout. Only time you'd need stranded is for a slide.
The Mike Holt has a good discussion on using stranded wire on side-wired receptacles (as used in buildings)
here. Although receptacles may be UL/CSA listed for solid or stranded wire, am not sure if that includes extension cord wire which is fine-stranded. I think you'll find it difficult to execute a good connection with extension cord wire. As the link above mentions, there are some receptacles that have a back-stab connection that tightens up by screwing down the screw on the side. If you do go ahead with the extension cord wire, perhaps tinning the ends might help?
Carlon makes a series of PVC boxes that would be a good choice but don't know if available in Canada. The photo shows a single-gang shallow type and I've used a few of these in our TT and bought them at an Ace Hardware across the border. You can see the plastic tab that holds romex/loomex in place and prevents it from pulling out. Don't know if it could damage the jacket/insulation on extension cord cable but doubt they are UL/CSA listed for extension cords. Not the correct thing to do, but could possibly bend the tab a bit so it's not as tight and if your wire/cable is installed in such a way that it can't move around, the tab wouldn't as much as a concern.
I have no issue with the RV "SCD" type receptacles themselves. The problem is that RV manufacturers don't always connect the wiring to them properly. They're a good choice in the thin walls RVs have and need no box. There's zillions of them out there in mobiles homes and you don't hear about them burning down from incorrectly wiring them. You MUST use solid wire only with these. Having said this, if you wanted to use an SCD recept. for a continuous type load (like a heater), I'd only use one on the circuit.
