Another solar controller question

I started with in-line fuses on both sides of the controller because the installation manual said it was necessary for code. My Morningstar Tristar 45 PWM controller is fully programmable and requires a disconnect from the battery for the programming process to finish, much like a reboot. The controller should not have any solar current coming in if it isn't connected to a battery, so every time a changed the program I would have to manually remove and reinstall the fuses. Not difficult, but an annoying time consuming step when doing a lot of experimentation. I switched the fuses over to circuit breakers and now it is easy-peazy.