Have an older 1999 RV. Tested furnace last week when the temps at home got down into the low 20’s. Everything was working fine. Just arrived in Indiana and went to turn it on last night and it is lighting but then shutting off after the 6 second flame detection time. As you know it will do this three times and then lock-out. This older modle does not have the LED on the circuit board. I pulled the outside cover and checked all wire connection and all look good. Had my wife turn it on while I was outside and after it lights I can continue to hear the clicking of the spark. I figure this means the board is not detecting the flame and is still trying to light it. So here are my questions. Do you think this is an electrode issue or a board issue? Could it have something to do with the wire between the electrode and the board? If so, is there a way to test that wire, like can it be jumped out with a test wire just to see it that works? Is there something else I can test by myself as I am parked right now at our daughters house. Last, if I pull it all apart should I just install a new electrode anyway? Oh, all other gas appliances are working OK and propane tank is full. Thanks in advance for any help.

Since you're on the road I'll toss out a couple of things. First pull the circuit board out and very LIGHTLY shine up the connection with a pencil eraser. Second take the high voltage wire off and check it for continuity with a meter. Third, pull the ignitor and very lightly clean the ends off of soot and reset the gap according to Atwood. If that all fails then spray some WD40 on the ceramic part of the ignitor to see if you have a crack and moisture got to it. WD40 will displace moisture.

You mean it lights but still clicks? Don't follow that. Mine will begin with the fan running and then the clicking and then it lights (or not). If it fails to light, I have to turn the thermostat to "off" and wait for the fan to stop then turn the thermostat back to "on" and try again. Sometimes it takes a few tries to get it to light if it has not been running lately, or after arriving after a drive. Once it gets going that first time, it behaves itself, cycling as set by the thermostat.I have an older model from 1991.

Flame sensor is not directly in flameBad circuit board not sensing flame.

Could be the board, but I would say that it's the flame sensor it's self, if it plugs into the board just replace the sensor. It's most likely a cad cell, which can be tested if you know it's specks.Dusty

Atwood 8531-IV-DCPL Furnace | Good Sam Community

jsuvman
Explorer
Dec 23, 2017
After I turn off the gas and take it all apart and put back together, I assume I will have to cycle it several times to get the air out of the gas line? Or is there something else I should do? Someone on another site recommended turning on the burners on the stove for a rew minutes to remove some of the air. Makes sense and my stove is right above the furnace so I would think that might help.
Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Dec 23, 2017
You shouldn't have to cycle it at all- it might go in to the second of three tries for ignition, but the furnace uses enough lip that it will purge the line quickly.
jsuvman
Explorer
Dec 24, 2017
Chris Bryant wrote:
You shouldn't have to cycle it at all- it might go in to the second of three tries for ignition, but the furnace uses enough lip that it will purge the line quickly.

Thanks for the info.
John_Joey
Explorer
Dec 26, 2017
So do you have heat yet?
jsuvman
Explorer
Dec 26, 2017
John&Joey wrote:
So do you have heat yet?

Parts got delaied due to the snow and then no deliveries yesterday. It shows out for delivery now for delivery today. I am glad we have an Olympian Wave2 Catalytic heater built into the wall and a portable electric heater as it it 20 F outside now.
jsuvman
Explorer
Dec 27, 2017
John&Joey wrote:
So do you have heat yet?

All working now. Just in time. It is 7 F this morning. Somehow mud dauber’s built a nest in the flame tube the burner goes in. It must have been on the top when we were at home so heater still worked and broke loose while driving so was blocking the burner. Thats all it was. After cleaning everything up, it started right up. So now I have some spare parts or can return them?

Have no idea how they got into the flame tube? We have a mud dauber screen on the outside, over the exhaust tube, so they cant get in there but the flame tube is basically sealed. Who knows.

Thanks everyone for all the help and have a great holiday and new year.
John_Joey
Explorer
Dec 28, 2017
Hot diggty dog, you got heat.

Should have paid more attention to your home state. I leave a rig in Texas for the summer and even though I have screens, I take the extra step to wrap them with aluminum foil when I'm gone for the summer.

Seems like there is some bug that likes to mess up the jet.
jsuvman
Explorer
Dec 29, 2017
John&Joey wrote:
Hot diggty dog, you got heat.

Should have paid more attention to your home state. I leave a rig in Texas for the summer and even though I have screens, I take the extra step to wrap them with aluminum foil when I'm gone for the summer.

Seems like there is some bug that likes to mess up the jet.

We do watch them pretty close as wasps got into the compartment behind the fridge once and spiders built a web once in the burner tube for the water heater. We started putting a small jar of moth balls in those compartments when not using the RV and have not had an issue for 5 years or more. Seems the wasps don’t like the smell of moth balls either, just like the spiders.

I guess I will have to do the furnace like that too or try your idea of the aluminum foil. I just have no idea how they could of got into that burner tube since it is all sealed?

Live and learn.

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