Have an older 1999 RV. Tested furnace last week when the temps at home got down into the low 20’s. Everything was working fine. Just arrived in Indiana and went to turn it on last night and it is lighting but then shutting off after the 6 second flame detection time. As you know it will do this three times and then lock-out. This older modle does not have the LED on the circuit board. I pulled the outside cover and checked all wire connection and all look good. Had my wife turn it on while I was outside and after it lights I can continue to hear the clicking of the spark. I figure this means the board is not detecting the flame and is still trying to light it. So here are my questions. Do you think this is an electrode issue or a board issue? Could it have something to do with the wire between the electrode and the board? If so, is there a way to test that wire, like can it be jumped out with a test wire just to see it that works? Is there something else I can test by myself as I am parked right now at our daughters house. Last, if I pull it all apart should I just install a new electrode anyway? Oh, all other gas appliances are working OK and propane tank is full. Thanks in advance for any help.

Since you're on the road I'll toss out a couple of things. First pull the circuit board out and very LIGHTLY shine up the connection with a pencil eraser. Second take the high voltage wire off and check it for continuity with a meter. Third, pull the ignitor and very lightly clean the ends off of soot and reset the gap according to Atwood. If that all fails then spray some WD40 on the ceramic part of the ignitor to see if you have a crack and moisture got to it. WD40 will displace moisture.

You mean it lights but still clicks? Don't follow that. Mine will begin with the fan running and then the clicking and then it lights (or not). If it fails to light, I have to turn the thermostat to "off" and wait for the fan to stop then turn the thermostat back to "on" and try again. Sometimes it takes a few tries to get it to light if it has not been running lately, or after arriving after a drive. Once it gets going that first time, it behaves itself, cycling as set by the thermostat.I have an older model from 1991.

Flame sensor is not directly in flameBad circuit board not sensing flame.

Could be the board, but I would say that it's the flame sensor it's self, if it plugs into the board just replace the sensor. It's most likely a cad cell, which can be tested if you know it's specks.Dusty

Atwood 8531-IV-DCPL Furnace | Good Sam Community

28 Replies

jsuvman
Explorer
Dec 20, 2017
Dusty R wrote:
Could be the board, but I would say that it's the flame sensor it's self, if it plugs into the board just replace the sensor. It's most likely a cad cell, which can be tested if you know it's specks.

Dusty

Yes the electrode/flame sensor (one piece version) plugs into the black module on the board. Thing is you have to pull out the whole regular/burner unit to get to it. That is why I was thinking if I have it all apart just change it anyway.
jsuvman
Explorer
Dec 20, 2017
newman fulltimer wrote:
bad propane regulator

I thought that too but everything else seems to work including the Atwood Water Heater. I guess I could have it tested? Do you know how you have them tested?
jsuvman
Explorer
Dec 20, 2017
enblethen wrote:
Flame sensor is not directly in flame
Bad circuit board not sensing flame.

That is what I thought. I think I will buy both since only about $90. Then if I pull it all apart at least I can put in a new electrode while I am in there. If that does not work, I will have the board which is easier to change.
Dusty_R
Explorer
Dec 20, 2017
Could be the board, but I would say that it's the flame sensor it's self, if it plugs into the board just replace the sensor. It's most likely a cad cell, which can be tested if you know it's specks.

Dusty
newman_fulltime
Explorer II
Dec 20, 2017
bad propane regulator
enblethen
Nomad
Dec 20, 2017
Flame sensor is not directly in flame
Bad circuit board not sensing flame.
BFL13
Explorer II
Dec 20, 2017
You mean it lights but still clicks? Don't follow that.

Mine will begin with the fan running and then the clicking and then it lights (or not). If it fails to light, I have to turn the thermostat to "off" and wait for the fan to stop then turn the thermostat back to "on" and try again. Sometimes it takes a few tries to get it to light if it has not been running lately, or after arriving after a drive. Once it gets going that first time, it behaves itself, cycling as set by the thermostat.

I have an older model from 1991.
John_Joey
Explorer
Dec 20, 2017
Since you're on the road I'll toss out a couple of things. First pull the circuit board out and very LIGHTLY shine up the connection with a pencil eraser. Second take the high voltage wire off and check it for continuity with a meter. Third, pull the ignitor and very lightly clean the ends off of soot and reset the gap according to Atwood.

If that all fails then spray some WD40 on the ceramic part of the ignitor to see if you have a crack and moisture got to it. WD40 will displace moisture.

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Atwood 8531-IV-DCPL Furnace

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