I've got an Atwood 8535-IV-DCLP that won't ignite. The blower runs, I hear it click, smell propane out of the exhaust, then it eventually clicks off. There is a small bulb on the circuit board next to the igniter but I didn't see it light up. I also didn't leave it on long after failing to ignite because of the propane in the air. Is this supposed to light up while igniting or after going into a failed state?There is a lot of soot. I blew out as much as I could with my air compressor. I'm wondering if the soot caused the electrode to foul. The troubleshooting document says that a faulty motor could cause the sooting. Could this be caused by a slow moving motor or just if it stops working all together?

http://forums.goodsamclub.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28698086.cfmI have the same problem. Some good tips in the thread "No Heat". Good luck.

ToyTruck:May be the igniter, may be the main board. You can have the main board tested at an authorized service center.You should call Atwood Technical Service Center at 800-546-8759 ext# 114706 (Mark Albrecht), he's a good head and will help you out but he's VERY busy so be patient.Good Luck

Low battery voltage at the furnace and/or improper fuel/air mixture can cause sooting. Kill power & pull the ignitor board. I clean mine up with a contact spray & clean the terminals with a pencil eraser on my 93 Pace Arrow Diesel. Do you have forward & rear furnace? Nice to be able to swap ignitor boards for testing.I would think that slow fan would not trip the sail switch but if that was the issue it would not go as far as releasing gas. Might need to pull the ignitor/sensor for cleaning. I have seen posts where the insulator on the ignitor will have a hairline crack & the spark will jump thru the crack to ground, Not to ground on the burner.Keep us posted.

I don't know about your sooting issue... But when I had problems with my furnace failing to light it was caused by a oxidized ignition contacts. A quick cleaning with the DW's emery board solved the problem. Not sure if this will cure your particular ignition woes, but it's an easy thing to service and see if it helps.Cheers-Mark

I keep my RV about 100 miles away. I pulled the board before I came home. I'll take it to a dealer to get it tested. If it's good, my plan is to remove the igniter to clean and inspect it. Do I need to take out the entire motor assembly to access it?I should have thought about swapping boards. I don't have two furnaces but there are plenty of RVs out there. Thanks for the advice.

Atwood furnace won't ignite | Good Sam Community

mchero
Explorer
Jan 12, 2016
Low battery voltage at the furnace and/or improper fuel/air mixture can cause sooting. Kill power & pull the ignitor board. I clean mine up with a contact spray & clean the terminals with a pencil eraser on my 93 Pace Arrow Diesel. Do you have forward & rear furnace? Nice to be able to swap ignitor boards for testing.
I would think that slow fan would not trip the sail switch but if that was the issue it would not go as far as releasing gas. Might need to pull the ignitor/sensor for cleaning. I have seen posts where the insulator on the ignitor will have a hairline crack & the spark will jump thru the crack to ground, Not to ground on the burner.
Keep us posted.
BoonHauler
Explorer
Jan 12, 2016
ToyTruck:

May be the igniter, may be the main board. You can have the main board tested at an authorized service center.

You should call Atwood Technical Service Center at 800-546-8759 ext# 114706 (Mark Albrecht), he's a good head and will help you out but he's VERY busy so be patient.

Good Luck
Calicajun
Explorer
Jan 12, 2016
http://forums.goodsamclub.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28698086.cfm

I have the same problem. Some good tips in the thread "No Heat".
Good luck.

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