Atwood Furnace Wont Light
I was checking out a friends furnace today, its an atwood, sorry don't know model no., in a 2007 coachmen Wyoming 36 ft 5er. I took the outside cover off,and the furnace cycled but went into fault aft...
Forum Discussion
Hello, I am having a similar issue. My 8535 Atwood furnace is 7 months old. First it got intermittent on lighting and I honed in on a works on one tank, not the other. That turned out not to be the case. Checking pressure at the gas valve found it was 8.5"wc. Turned regulator to read 11"wc at furnace gas valve. Furnace lit. OK, worked for a couple days. Now, if I leave the furnace off overnight, it will light once in the morning and run till it satisfies the thermostat which yesterday was 40 minutes. Then when the thermostat calls for more heat it will not light and go into the 3 plink soft lockout.
After it lights the first time in the morning, goes into the 3 blink/one hour lockout it tries to light every hour. Sometimes after 3-4 attempts/hours it will light and work normally for that heat cycle. Then it will not light the rest of the day.
When it did not light we did try a replacement board and that did not correct the issue. We are thinking electrode ceramic cracked, air gap? The service tech has a electrode ordered.
While waiting on the electrode, I'd be willing to pull the burner assy out and check the gap. It looks like you take out 2x 1/4" sheet metal screws way up in there and undo the gas line, remove the electrode wire and gas valve wire.
Can the burner assy be removed using the above method?
Since it worked perfect for a couple of months, I find it hard the gap changed and the only working one time in the morning has me stumped.
Thanks Jim
After it lights the first time in the morning, goes into the 3 blink/one hour lockout it tries to light every hour. Sometimes after 3-4 attempts/hours it will light and work normally for that heat cycle. Then it will not light the rest of the day.
When it did not light we did try a replacement board and that did not correct the issue. We are thinking electrode ceramic cracked, air gap? The service tech has a electrode ordered.
While waiting on the electrode, I'd be willing to pull the burner assy out and check the gap. It looks like you take out 2x 1/4" sheet metal screws way up in there and undo the gas line, remove the electrode wire and gas valve wire.
Can the burner assy be removed using the above method?
Since it worked perfect for a couple of months, I find it hard the gap changed and the only working one time in the morning has me stumped.
Thanks Jim
