Atwood water heater issue
First trip out in our new to us Sunnybrook Brookside and the water heater did not work using the electric option. It was barely warm after sitting for a long time. I switch it over to LP and it work...
Forum Discussion
dougrainer wrote:Old-Biscuit wrote:dougrainer wrote:
BUZZ is NORMAL. IF it works on LP, then the Tstat and ECO is OK. There is a YELLOW wire on the circuit board connection. When on 120, THAT wire should have 12 volts. IF it does, then you will have to access the rear of the water heater to check the 120 element relay and the element. You do NOT need to OHM an element. NEVER need too. All you do is verify 120 volts at the white and black wires on the element. IF you have 120 volts and NO heat after 2 hours, your element is BAD. They either work or they do not. They do NOT put out a little heat. Doug
What BUZZ ?
As for the ECO and 'electric' operation
There is a Millivolt signal from circuit board to gas valve so that ECO is included in electric operation.
Dirty/corroded connections on ECO/gas valve will stop the millivolt signal and electric will not work
(Disconnect RED wires and try electric....it will NOT turn on)
Works on propane cause propane uses 12V (+) DC Voltage
As I stated, IF it works on LP, then the tstat and ECO are functioning. Electric DOES utilize the ECO and tstat. The BUZZ is the high pitched hum he stated he heard in his first post. It is NORMAL and does it on LP and 120. You just have a hard time hearing the audible when the LP flame is roaring. So, what is your problem with my post?????? Doug
Didn't see anything about OP reporting a BUZZ in his first post......missed it in his other post.
As for the ECO and electric.
Was just clarifying that JUST because LP works does NOT mean the ECO Circuit is good and will work when on electric
The higher full battery voltage when on LP can go thru ECO much easier then the millivolt that is used for electric
SO one should not ASSUME that T-stat/ECO RED wire circuit is fully function just because LP works
