Back in the dark ages !
I believe that I was taught that all things being equal, that stranded wire would carry more current than solid wire ? Is that true or am I being misled ?
Forum Discussion
Wire carrying capacity for DC and 60hz electricity will depend on circular mils (copper cross section) not stranded or solid. Also depends on insulation heat rating and if the wire is bundled in a sheath such as NMB, in conduit, or in free air. However this ampacity rating would be used for fuse selection. Selecting the right wire will also depend on the length and amp load to avoid excessive voltage drop. Usually one or two sizes larger will be appropriate vs minimum for ampacity.
Also smaller wire will tend to allow more ampacity per circular mil of copper as there is more relative surface area to dissipate heat. Need to study a wire vs ampacity chart. Very high frequency AC will have some "skin effect" but nothing to think about in an RV.
May not need a shunt (battery monitor). If the battery has bluetooth it may already have an internal shunt. Voltage is still an indicator of remaining capacity although voltage is very flat from 25% to 75%. Depending on the usage and charging patterns the system may stay above 50% and mostly get ignored.
Alternator is only subject to overload/heat damage if the connection is short, fat and no fuse. More likely to have lower than desired charging vs overcurrent situation. Many jump on a DC-DC charger when it is not really needed. Install the battery and measure the situation before adding more equipment.
I pulled my trailer 5 hours today and my alternator is fine. My internal BMS was indicating 99% full. (no harm in a short charge unlike the old lead-acid)
Also smaller wire will tend to allow more ampacity per circular mil of copper as there is more relative surface area to dissipate heat. Need to study a wire vs ampacity chart. Very high frequency AC will have some "skin effect" but nothing to think about in an RV.
May not need a shunt (battery monitor). If the battery has bluetooth it may already have an internal shunt. Voltage is still an indicator of remaining capacity although voltage is very flat from 25% to 75%. Depending on the usage and charging patterns the system may stay above 50% and mostly get ignored.
Alternator is only subject to overload/heat damage if the connection is short, fat and no fuse. More likely to have lower than desired charging vs overcurrent situation. Many jump on a DC-DC charger when it is not really needed. Install the battery and measure the situation before adding more equipment.
I pulled my trailer 5 hours today and my alternator is fine. My internal BMS was indicating 99% full. (no harm in a short charge unlike the old lead-acid)
