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thewayweroll's avatar
thewayweroll
Explorer
Jun 23, 2020

Bad Converter Charger

Wife & I are out in Truck Camper. Usually take a look at an app on my phone that links to my solar charge controller. It showed the batteries at 16.78v

WOW!

I have a multimeter & got to digging around. Think I found the issue. When I shut off the breaker for the converter/charger the batteries come back down to 14v. We are running the generator for power right now. I've not experienced a Converter failure so has anyone seen this high voltage issue when they start failing?

It is the converter I've read about that has a bad reputation

6332 Magnatek

However, I had this in my last 1996 Shadow Cruiser 9.5ft truck camper for 5 years (original) & it never gave me a hint of trouble. I'm pretty sure though this Camper was used a bit more over the years.
  • BFL13 wrote:
    The 6300 DC fuse panel has two pos 12v wires from the converter. Red and blue. White to the neg set-screw terminal. The newer converter will have one pos (blue) and one white.

    So to use the 6300 fuse panel with the one pos wire from the new converter, jumper the panel's two pos terminals and put the one blue wire to one of them. Now the new converter powers both sides of the 6300 panel.


    Ah, That makes sense to me now. :S

    BFL13 wrote:
    For the converter input 120v, it will likely have a plug in to a receptacle. You can do that if there is one handy. You can cut off the plug and put the hot to the breaker same as the 6300 was and the neutral to the neutral bus same as the 6300 was.


    Thanks for that information. I just looked at all my saved listings of PowerMax & they seem to of jumped up in price or out of stock. Think I'll go w/the PD4635VL since it does come w/a another 12v board. Although, I'm sure this old one is doing fine.
  • The 6300 DC fuse panel has two pos 12v wires from the converter. Red and blue. White to the neg set-screw terminal. The newer converter will have one pos (blue) and one white.

    So to use the 6300 fuse panel with the one pos wire from the new converter, jumper the panel's two pos terminals and put the one blue wire to one of them. Now the new converter powers both sides of the 6300 panel.

    For the converter input 120v, it will likely have a plug in to a receptacle. You can do that if there is one handy. You can cut off the plug and put the hot to the breaker same as the 6300 was and the neutral to the neutral bus same as the 6300 was.

    BUT--you want a switch for this converter so you can turn it off when on inverter. If it is a plug in just use a power bar that has its own on off switch. If you do a hard wire, insert a switch on the black hot wire before it goes to the breaker. I did that with my 7300 in a previous RV, using a stick house light switch for the converter switch. Remember to test it before putting it in so up is on and down is off.
  • time2roll wrote:
    Check the meter against a known source. A low internal battery can cause a high reading.


    Excellent point! I did check Both of my batteries. Disconnected one from the other very easy with the anderson connector I installed. Both went down to 14v. They are settled right now, just checked, after sun went down. 12.7v on the charge controller
  • enblethen wrote:
    What is the voltage output of genset?


    124v Output

    Predator 3500 Watt Super Quiet Inverter Generator w/50 Hours... Bought it as a B-day gift to myself :D
  • Check the meter against a known source. A low internal battery can cause a high reading.
  • BFL13 wrote:
    Yes, your 6300 is toast. Over-voltage is common with those when they fail. Easy to replace that "lower portion" with a modern converter

    I replaced the one in the 1991 Class C we have with a PowerMax deck mount, and kept the 6300's fuse panel board--jumpering the two positives so the new converter did all the fuses--no more split panel.


    Thanks for the reply! I'm glad to see this is a common failure symptom to confirm my diagnosis.

    I had the 30A Cord plugged into the Generator & went to fire it up. Told the wife I probably finished it off as I know your suppose to remove all loads when starting or shutting down generator.

    I've had those PowerMax's saved on my watchlists online for a good year now. Planned on 35A Version.

    I had this magnatek wired to a separate "2-panel" breaker box so that way it won't ever come on when I'm running my 12v inverter (Inverter running on batteries just to charge the batteries)

    Unfortunately, This one breaker is also wired to my fridge a/c side, again to not run off my 12v inverter, when its on.

    BUT I think I'm just going to go back to using a breaker on the RV panel (above converter) then just flip the breaker on only to charge up batteries when on AC power/Generator is available.

    I've got 1 more solar panel to "Tape Down" to take care of most of the batteries charging but I'm sure I'll need the charger during some winter months.

    When you mention Jumpering the positives etc. I know there is the 12V fuse panel next to the 120v breakers. The Converter/Charger needs 120v source & then Wire the 12v leads to the 12v board. I'm envisioning you twisting the 120v input+ to the 12V+ but I know that can't be what your talking about...ha ha!
  • Yes, your 6300 is toast. Over-voltage is common with those when they fail. Easy to replace that "lower portion" with a modern converter for around $150 or whatever.

    I replaced the one in the 1991 Class C we have with a PowerMax deck mount, and kept the 6300's fuse panel board--jumpering the two positives so the new converter did all the fuses--no more split panel.

    BTW, don't replace it with a 7300 or a WFCO and also that "Ultra" is a WFCO too.

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