batteries

considering the year 92

my answer is NO it doesn't

there are lots of posts on this forum about, battery maintainers, trickle chargers, etc..

many members have one wired to the chassis batteries, powered off the 110v line via shore or generator, or one of the DC versions from solar

MrWizard wrote:
is everything working properly Now ?

starting battery was not charged 'enough' YET !

load spikes from the the generator 'starter' ? causing transients on the chassis electrical system

Everything is working fine now.When the generator started the speed monitor went back down and the windshield wipers just barely moved.The only thing when i shut the motor off it was like the starting battery didnt recieve one bit of a charge.No juice so what ever.The headlights wont even come on but the generator started right up without the motor on without any problem.I guess its time to buy a new starting battery.The last time this happened was when i wired the house batteries the wrong way.I missed my step up because it came out so hard.Do you know if the onbourd generator will charge the starting battery?The starting battery is not hooked together with the house batteries.I have a 92 thor pinnacle.With a 4000 watt onan generator.

One electrolytic capacitor



And one or two of these connected to the two capacitor screws

Will really help cut down on MOTORHOME generator control panel malfunctions, refrigerator and hot water heater control failures, radios, whatever electronics in motorhome chassis. Not so much in trailers because transient spikes are generated by alternators, chassis engine starter motors and onboard generator starter motors.

I upgraded a dozen or more 24 and 32 volt fishing trawlers with these filters and just like with RVs subsequent problems almost vanished. If you want to muse something --- chew on this --- there are positive AND negative oriented transients. And OEM accessory manufacturers are concerned with one thing --- get through the warranty period. Price their electronics repair modules and see reality.

is everything working properly Now ?

starting battery was not charged 'enough' YET !

load spikes from the the generator 'starter' ? causing transients on the chassis electrical system

Generator has it's own battery. Bad negative no crank.

Vehicle engine has it's own battery. Bad negative no crank.

Engine running not heavily overloading engine bat negative cable

Running out of faulty negative connection answer options. Engine starter motor needs 2x current of engine alternator.

Here is a verbatim recollection...

"We connected the cables to his pickup's battery. I started my engine then he started his. All my dash instruments warning lights came on. Then the engine shut off and would not start again" (crank but no start).

"Do you want to fix it?"

"No"

I had no experience with ECU's. He had it towed to a dealer and the repair bill was close to two thousand dollars. The dealer had to backorder the ECU and the man waited weeks for his car to get repaired.

I was a wimp about electronics 35 years ago. In cold weather I used a series three cell connected to a four cell marine battery setup switched through a Delco big rig starter relay.

They would turn the key and after I heard their starter go clack I would push a button and hit the system with 14 volts which in reality turned out to be twelve something under load. Their engine cranking at 12-volts instead of 9 or ten made all the difference in the world. This system worked especially well on Mercedes Diesels at or near 0 F.

Ground issue maybe. The heavier starting load on a depleted battery system may have caused it to seek a ground anywhere it could causing anomalies.

Together with the battery cables I would also be looking at the engine ground and generator ground.

I had an old van that had all kinds of gremlins and ghostly effects until I discovered the ground strap between the engine and chassis was broken. Established a good ground between the engine and chassis and all the gremlins went away.

Lots of folks laugh at the thought that RV systems can "generate" lots of voltage transients which is dirty electricity. The laughing dies down when the credit card processor nabs chunks out of a bank account for diagnosis and repair.

This is why with anything newer than a 1980 electrical system when jump starting the car with the dead battery is never allowed to try and start with the other car running.

Yes, voltage spikes can damage generator control panels. People would think fifty dollars for an electrical filter to minimize voltage spikes would be a rip-ff hoax so it would be a fruitless endeavor to try and market one. lots and lots of money involved in fixing broken stuff so the subject is seldom discussed.

OP, have you gathered by now what you should not be doing?