Battery Cable Crimp Question

I need to fix this with the wire in the trailer since I don't want to re-run the battery to converter wiring at this time. It looks like the wire is run directly from the batteries to the converter.

The most cost effective tool I've found is the Quick Cable Quick Crimp 250. It's hand operated hex tool. It's still quite pricy at ~$200.

I can't figure out the inexpensive hydraulic tools. It seems as if in many cases the dies are not quite right - as if they are set up for a different application. At least the Harbor Freight one claims to have dies in an AWG scale vs MM like some of the other ones I see.

Even if crimper supports AWG sizes you need different dies depending on the lugs (Battery/Starter type vs thicker power type). I don't know which the HF supports, it can't be both though.


Whatever tool I buy, I think it should at least have instructions that show what lugs it's compatible with....


If I'm willing to pony up for the Quick Cable tool, does anyone know if it will work as advertised from 8 to 4/0 cable?

Here's photo of one of the existing crimps:

The single indentation also allows air, possibly water in on the edges. The hexagon crimps (as per ljr's link) provide a watertight seal all the way around.

Oh, don't let "marine grade" fool you. Some crappy single spike crimp tools are sold as "marine grade". As Mexicowanderer pointed out, you want the multi-sided crimp under 5-10 tons of pressure, preferably a double crimp, and then heat shrink tubing on the connection as another barrier to water/oxygen intrusion.

I use One of these.

The most widely accepted "good crimp" is made with a hexagon shape die, under tons of pressure. A battery lug with a doubled crimp is OEM standard for many industries including voltage transmission lines. I have seen far and away too many failures in "Single Spike" crimps to suit me. The single indentation stresses the metal in the dent, and caused fractures and failures which admitted air and failed the integrity of the termination.

Unless done right, crimped connectors will get loose and corrode. Closed ended terminals and heat shrink tubing are a must. I'd look at a hydraulic crimping tool as well because it makes a much better, longer lasting crimp joint than the inexpensive ones.

One suggestion: for one of those cables at least you may be able to find a standard cable at the auto parts store.. These starter cables are normally 4GA, and factory crimped rather well

I do not have the ability to crimp cable larger than 10ga but I can tell you this, A good proper crimp.. Be it 10ga, 12ga, 18 ga or 0000ga One big cable) the wires wont wiggle.. Not at all

But it is not a "Cold weld" (That is a chemical glue) just a crimp

A welding supply house may be able to re-crimp em, that's where I got my last cable crimped... or a Solar Power Store. (The one it repalced, damage to the wire, NOT a bad crimp).

smkettner wrote:
Time for a new ring terminal. Keep wiggling and that old one should slip off.
For corrosion resistance get a closed end terminal and use heat shrink.
What size wire?

6 Gauge wire. I suspect I'm going to have to replace all 4 ends. I haven't looked at the back of the converter yet.

Time for a new ring terminal. Keep wiggling and that old one should slip off.
For corrosion resistance get a closed end terminal and use heat shrink.
What size wire?

ljr wrote:
I use One of these.

+1 for this. I find it better to go up one die size. For super pro look you need to crimp and rotate/recrimp a few times. Although for #6 down I might just hit it hard twice with the easier pinch crimper.

Agreed - they were not crimped correctly. There should be no movement on the ring side. When you get them recrimped, they should check the new end of the cable for any corrosion that has creaped up form the old end. And then use a piece of red or black heat shrink over the cable end and the crimped part of the connector.

Bill

The wire terminals were not properly crimped.

They can usually be re-crimped with the correct tool.