Battery Disconnect positive or negative side?

Here's my battery compartment. Originally, all 4 red cables were on one post. I added the adapter so I could attach the positive for solar and battery monitor from shunt.

I'm a buss man myself. (and balanced, too!)

Flooded batteries corrode anything connected to either post.

Connect lots and lots of wire and cables to the two posts

Have lots and lots of corrosion.

Connect one, single cable to battery post and run cable to multiple connect buss bar.

A fraction of the problems

Now which method appeals to you?

Do you have more than one positive wire coming off the battery?
afaik there should be one wire that goes to the cut-off switch.

If there are other wires I would discover what they are connected to and verify no current flow.

Next is the switch. Again need to discover what is connected to the battery side and what power does it use.

I would tend to rewire and adjust so that the OEM switch does as you expect. Or why have it at all.

SFVdave wrote:
Would something like this work?
Inline circuit breaker
I could cut the cable at the battery and insert this.

That is what I use for a disconnect, works fine. I use a 150 amp.

LIFT the negative battery cable from the negative post/

ALL LIGHTS GO OUT
Batteries are wired correctly

ALL LIGHTS DO not GO OUT
Are there wires running to the other 12 volt battery negative? WIRED WRONG

Quote:
Some things really need power all the time
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Oh no they don't either,....and especially not any memory held items !!! DUH??
The reason for a batt cutoff, is to illuminate any possibility of the batteries being drained. Have to wonder what ever gave you that idea.
And I don't care whats common, or what the factory does, or anything else. I just know whats right.

Oh, to answer the question,...whichever cuts the entire 12v circuit, bar nothing.

Won't work - it must handle the maximum amps, consider inverter or emergency start, etc. Consider something like this switch:

Would something like this work?
Inline circuit breaker
I could cut the cable at the battery and insert this.

Some things really need power all the time.. Steps if they are automatic need to extend when door is opened... Explosive Gas, Smoke and CO detectors,, Really should never be disabled.

But yes. you can add a 2nd switch if you wish and kill EVERYTHING.

Depending on where the switch is.. You may also be able to move the positive leads to the switched terminal instead of the battery.